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The Lanvin Spring-Summer 2017 runway presentation marks Bouchra Jarrar’s first show and second collection for the French fashion house, as well as reminds us that her eponymous label has now had its last. Jarrar’s typically minimal tendencies were still evident amongst a more traditional Lanvin foundation of embellishment and drape, popularized by former creative director Alber Elbaz. A predominantly monochrome color palette, a myriad of motorcycle and tuxedo jackets, along with delicate pleating were all features reminiscent of her previous collections. In fact, the contrast between old and new was not subtle– even a hint of the Elbaz’s imprint on Lanvin was quite distant.
A shawl-collared, white tuxedo jacket opened the presentation, garnished with a stunning black and white floral brooch, an accessory that would walk down the runway several times during the show. Long, intricate gold necklaces fell upon the models’ chests like delicate hair, drawing the eyes down to ornately embellished sandals. Hands and wrists were also covered in gentle sheets of gold and jewels. To speak modestly, even the most impressive chandeliers of the Hôtel de Ville were unable to shine with as much splendor as the jewelry.
Perhaps unexpectedly, Jarrar imparts a new sense of sensuality and intimacy on the Lanvin women. Lace and sheer were ever present, as Jarrar plays with “veiling and unveiling the [female] silhouette.” Other highlights of the collection included sharp, deep necklines; stripes that ran the length of flowing trousers and floor-length chiffon tunics; and tremendous feather- lined collars, certain to leave an impression on show attendees and past Lanvin aficionados, alike.
WRITTEN BY HOLLIS DE LANEY
PHOTO CREDIT: LANVIN