March 07, 2017 2:00 PM

The insurmountable responsibility of designing a collection for Saint Laurent goes without saying. Following Hedi Slimane’s recent and massive commercial and critical success, the attention on Anthony Vacarello’s second collection for the legendary house could not have been greater. The Fall-Winter 2017 collection was shown at Saint Laurent’s under-construction location on the Rue de Bellechasse in Paris.

The Italian-Belgian designer presented the collection as an appreciation and reinterpretation Yves Saint Laurent’s “dark romanticism with a hint of perversity,” as Vacarello described. The collection aims to address this complex femininity, playing with several subtle paradoxes. Feminine and sensually-cut dresses made their way only a few inches down the models’ legs and were crafted from folds upon heavy folds of structural leathers and shearlings. Black and various shades of warm, retro, cognac tones beat their way down the runway to trance-like electronic sounds. These leathers were repurposed as endlessly-creased, knee-high boots, as well as knotty flower forms that garnished chokers and dresses, alike. While clearly inspired by the evening and after-hours, the collection retained a casual, basic, and wearable appeal. The 80’s lived on in party-inspired exaggerated shoulders, countless crystal rhinestones, pitch black velvet, and shining patent leather. Unmistakable, sculptural shapes and silhouettes found themselves in nearly ever design.

Although the runway show included both men’s and women’s looks, the healthy population of Saint Laurent menswear aficionados may still need to see more if the brand’s mother-company Kering wishes to keep up their heavy, Slimane-fueled fandom. Out of over one-hundred looks sent down the catwalk, only a handful were men’s. A variety of leather jackets were paired with knit-wear, followed by a later burst of skinny trousers and several decadent tuxedos.

Vacarello paid close attention to the archives in his debut collection, and for his second time around, the designer has done an applaudable job of approaching the brand’s multidimensional femininity through rough, confrontational romanticism. He also met the challenging prospect of respecting the French house’s heritage whilst remaining true to himself and his style as a designer. Gowns with waist-high slits splitting up a lone thigh– a Vacarello trademark– made a few loud appearances in the collection.

Casting for the show was refreshingly inclusive. The broad range of models made the presentation’s statement even more powerful. Rugged and feminine styles had a deceptive simplicity that created an in-your-face impact. The industrial, stadium-like location only added to the excitement. Like a warehouse party, the evening-ready looks felt strangely at home in the cold, dark expanse of an edifice. There is a legacy to be left behind, and it’s only a matter of time to experience the mark that Anthony Vacarello will leave behind. In the meantime, he is still afloat and thriving in his an environment of striking, sexy, and aggressive styles.







related posts

Miu Miu F/W2017 Campaign Starring Kate Moss and the Aboah Sisters

The Miu Miu Girl has always been bolder and sexier than her patrician elder sister, the Prada Girl.

July 25, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Just Cavalli F/W2017 Collection

In releasing its latest campaign, Just Cavalli has teamed up with...

July 24, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

René Caovilla F/W2017 COLLECTION

Italian designer René Caovilla has tapped into a new kind of sensual feminine energy with the launch of...

July 18, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik Final Collaboration, #SoStoned

For their third and final collaboration, Manolo Blahnik and Rihanna have released the...

July 18, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Beau Souci Fashion Story "Beautiful Worries"

BEAU SOUCI FASHION STORY “Beautiful Worries" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

July 17, 2017 10:00 AM  |  Fashion
Veronika Brusa, Berenik Creative Director

Berenik Opens Soho Boutique & Talenthouse with Dance

Last week, genderless Swiss fashion label Berenik celebrated the opening of its New York City boutique and Talenthouse at 419 Broome...

July 17, 2017 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between

Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important and influential designers of the past 40 years,” said Andrew Bolton, Head Curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute...

July 05, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU "ROOM303" BY Alasdair McLellan

By emulating an all familiar, oversaturated photographic aesthetic—those snaps of friends in the club, a family packed in a restaurant booth, an evening traversing the city, or an illuminated sea...

June 27, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Nomos Glashütte Aqua Series Watch Collection

Independent German watchmaking house Nomos Glashütte has just released the...

June 26, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Roberto Cavalli F/W2017 Campaign Starring Eva Herzigova

With the launch of Roberto Cavalli’s Fall/Winter 2017 campaign comes a bold retelling of the classic Italian love affair.

June 20, 2017 1:16 PM  |  Fashion

3.1 Phillip Lim Fashion Story "3.1"

FASHION STORY “3.1" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

June 12, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion


VIDEO STORY “LIFE GOES ON" is now available! 

View the video on the right and check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

June 09, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti F/W2017 Collection “Le Rouge Et Le Noir”

Italian designer Giuseppe Zanotti delivers a refreshing dose of dichotomy with the introduction of his Fall/Winter 2017 campaign.

June 02, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons: The Power of Icons

An L and a V. The combination of these two letters has become one of the most widely recognized trademarks in the world, let alone the fashion world.

May 30, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

“Who is Gabrielle?” #GabrielleChanel

Everyone knows Chanel 2.55, the bag famously created by Gabrielle Chanel in February 1955 and named after the month and year of its birth.

May 01, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion


Fashion meets design in the conceptual Nendo x Jil Sander Capsule Collection debuting during Milan Design Week.

April 26, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion



Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

April 24, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Tiffany & Co. New HardWear Collection with Lady Gaga

Last year, TWELV introduced the new Tiffany & Co. “Legendary Style” series.  The campaign series began in Fall 2016, and featured Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o and actress Elle Fanning...

April 21, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion


Interview / Fashion Story

"CLAIRE DE REGGE" is now available!

Check inside for the full page of editorial

April 20, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion


The runway is a facade for designers to stage their vision, the strictly choreographed back-and-forth of models shinning a never-ending flow of clothes.

April 17, 2017 1:00 PM  |  Fashion


FASHION STORY “CORY ROBERTS" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

April 13, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Contemporary Luxury Welcomes #TFWGucci

The swaths of newfound Gucci aficionados are certain to be charmed by the fashion house’s latest collaborative campaign, #TFWGucci (“That Feel When” or “That Feeling When”), a meme-based, creative...

April 12, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion


FASHION STORY “MY OWN STORY" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 28, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion


FASHION STORY "PLAY DEAD" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 22, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion


SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲