Dior F/W2017 Haute Couture Collection

July 31, 2017 8:00 AM

It's impossible to overestimate the impact of Christian Dior's first collection when it was shown in Paris in 1947. The global community had just emerged from the devastation of war, and it was a time of rebuilding and rapid economic growth. Women who had entered the workplace to fulfill manufacturing jobs in support of the war effort were longing for glamour and a return to their traditional feminine roles. Dior's new look was the answer. His iconic silhouette– cinched waists, voluminous hips swathed in taffeta, and sharply accented busts– was nothing short of revolutionary.

Seventy years later, Dior's Artistic Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri found herself in the unenviable position of designing the label's Autumn/Winter 2017-2018 haute couture collection. It's like a contemporary pop singer recording a song by Marvin Gaye or Frank Sinatra. One must pay homage to the legacy, yet venture far enough from the prototype to suggest innovation, lest she be accused of mere imitation. Like I said, it's an unenviable task. But if anyone is up for the challenge of steering the most storied fashion house of the 20th Century into a bold new future in the 21st, then surely it is Chiuri.

Born and educated in Rome, Chiuri spent twenty years as a designer at Valentino before her appointment at Dior last summer, the first female Artistic Director in the company's history. Like Monsieur Dior himself, Chiuri's skills as a couturier are unimpeachable: the meticulous body-skimming tailoring, the selection of fabrics that float with the body, the lush details which add sophistication but never detract from the silhouette.

These attributes were present in all 66 of the looks that Chiuri presented in the gardens of Les Arts Decoratifs in Paris on July 4th, and many of her garments were explicitly inspired by original designs by Christian Dior. The strapless evening dresses are particular standouts. An ankle-length ball gown with a tulip bust in deep grey silk would boost a red carpet ingenue into full-fledged global stardom. A lace embroidered evening dress in shades of grey with a scalloped hem screams Hampton's garden party. A silk evening dress with a sheer herringbone design, translucent bust and zig-zag hem is edgy yet sophisticated, in a Rihanna at the Grammies sort of way. A fringy embroidered cocktail dress with a deep v-neck and sheer skirt would be a stunning red carpet look for Jennifer Lopez. Yes, I know, a burlap sack would be stunning on Jennifer Lopez, lest we digress. Similarly, this fringe number would be a show-stopper on anyone lithe and daring enough to wear it.

Like Mr. Dior, Ms. Chiuri has a particular fascination with jacketed suits. But in contrast to Monsieur's calf-bearing designs, Chiuri's collection features mostly ankle-length garments. Paired with her penchant for wool and a palette along the grey spectrum, Chiuri's designs sometimes venture from Dior's celebration of life and fertility, and almost suggest a wartime rations sensibility, as if the garments were made from surplus army blankets.

For women of the world who celebrate life at fabulous galas and red carpet events, there will be no shortage of divine options from Chiuri's couture collection for Dior this season. And let those of us who critique Chiuri's aesthetic and compare her to Monsieur Dior be damned. For Dior was a man with a vision to create clothes that every woman in the world would want to wear, and seventy years later, the fashion house he built remains one of the most storied on the planet. And while the book of Dior has many chapters by various authors, Chiuri has earned her place among them. Her collection was indeed appropriately innovative while paying respect to the legacy, an unenviable task which Chiuri has approached with courage and grace. Monsieur Dior would surely approve.

 

 

WRITTEN BY KAREN FRAGALA-SMITH

EDITED BY HOLLIS DE LANEY

 

PHOTO CREDIT: DIOR

 

related posts

Helmut Lang NYC Taxi Cab Campaign & Capsule Collection

This year has been a transformative period for Helmut Lang, a brand so inextricably tied with its enigmatic founder who left his label in 2005 and whose influence still manifests in...

December 06, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel BoyFriend Watch Celebration at the #CocoClub

Chanel's latest Instagram-geared affair celebrated their BoyFriend watch collection, a line of angular, masculine watches for women.

November 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
The Cover of "Dresses to Dream About" Photo: Brad Walsh

Christian Siriano's "Dresses to Dream About" Celebrates a Decade of Work

Christian Siriano's decade of empowering women through his epononymous label launched in 2008 is now being celebrated in the designer's first coffee table book entitled Dresses to Dream About...

November 10, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion
Video still from "STEFFI"

Roberto Cavalli X TWELV Fashion Video "Steffi"

TWELV Roberto Cavalli Video Story "STEFFI"

November 08, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine Halloween 2017 Party @Better Days

TWELV Magazine's annual Halloween party was on the cutting edge of horror haute couture with costumed guests attending as their alter egos for the night.

October 30, 2017 6:00 PM  |  Fashion
Tetra Neomatik 39

Nomos Glashütte Debuts "At Work" Collection

Luxury German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte has been in the market for 25 years now, but it didn’t take...

October 30, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
Video Still from "The Gate"

Björk Wears a Custom Gucci Masterpiece in "The Gate"

The genius of Björk, if we can condense it, is her ability to enable the human voice to express in sound what cannot be put into words.

October 12, 2017 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Enisa Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "Freedom"

ENISA Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "Freedom" is now available!

October 06, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU S/S18 PFW READY-TO-WEAR

While there were no show stopping, jaw dropping surprises among the 44 looks presented by Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu's Spring/Summer 2018 collection, it was a solid representation of the brand's...
October 06, 2017 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Stella McCartney S/S18 PFW Ready-to-Wear

Stella McCartney's longstanding commitment to maintain a business model with environmental impact in mind was employed...

October 03, 2017 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Roberto Cavalli MFW S/S18 Ready-to-Wear

With the Spring/Summer 2018 shows of Milan Fashion Week now in the rearview mirror of fashion month, we can reflect on some of the visions thatpresent the most radical new creative...

October 02, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

All:One, the Skate Brand Promoting Inclusivity

The hyper-connected, instantly gratifying world of social media has given people a platform to express their viewpoints and make their voices heard.

September 28, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

MARC JACOBS NYFW S/S18 READY-TO-WEAR

"The future is uncertain and the end is always near" sang Jim Morrison in the song "Roadhouse Blues," and if there is any truth to the rumors that have been swirling all summer, this...

September 15, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Bruce Weber Photographs Frame Denim

The latest collection from Frame Denim comes like a soft ripple, wending and spreading itself through the fashion world in an organic wave.

September 15, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Spencer Ludwig, Nina Agdal, Tyson Ritter

Thursday Boot Company NYFW S/S18 Launch Party

Comfort, performance and style are seldom co-habitants when it comes to footwear.

September 14, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

KIMIKO EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW / Fashion story

KIMIKO Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "Kimiko" is now available!

September 14, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Namilia NYFW S/S18 Ready-to-Wear

Berlin-based design duo Nan Li and Emilia Pfohl have stuck to their guns and carved out a niche for their relatively young label ...

September 14, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Video Still from TWELV's "Freedom" by Enisa

"Freedom" Enisa x TWELV VIDEO

“FREEDOM" ENISA x TWELV video is now available!

 

September 08, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine NYFW SS18 Party @Better Days

To celebrate the anxiously awaited September moment– New York Fashion Week SS18– TWELV Magazine held it's biannual NYFW party at "Better Days," the newly reopened Lower East Side location...

September 08, 2017 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Elodie Yung EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "Elodie Yung"

Elodie Yung Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "Elodie Yung" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 07, 2017 10:00 AM  |  Fashion
Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent © DR

The Legacy of Yves Saint Laurent to be Honored at New Marrakech Museum

Yves Saint Laurent is not the first to call Morocco muse, but the legacy of his interweaving the North African nation’s vibrant aesthetic into European fashion continues to this day,...

September 02, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

"Close Encounters of the Third Kind" Behind the Scenes Video

"CLOSE ENCOUNTERS OF A THIRD KIND"  behind the scene video is now available! 

View the video on the right and check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

August 31, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Close Encounters of the Third Kind"

FASHION STORY “CLOSE ENCOUNTERS OF A THIRD KIND" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

August 25, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine Celebrates Hissa/CHAMA's Birthday @Public Hotel

TWELV had the pleasure of celebrating the birthday of Editor-in-Chief Hissa/CHAMA Igarashi at the Public Arts space...

August 24, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Ane Amour"

FASHION STORY “Ane Amour" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

August 21, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
TM & © 2017 CBS Studios Inc. STAR TREK and related marks are properties owned by CBS Studios Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Gucci F/W2017 Collection Explores Strange New Worlds

Boldly going where no fashion house has gone before, Gucci launches its latest Fall/Winter 2017 collection with a full-on...

August 14, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti X Jennifer Lopez Second Collaboration

After a successful first collaboration, Italian luxury footwear designer Giuseppe Zanotti and ...

August 04, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine Party "Summer Soirée" @Kola House

As the Men's New York Fashion Week came to a close, TWELV hosted a party for everyone in need of an unwind during this blistering summer.

August 01, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Dior F/W2017 Haute Couture Collection

It's impossible to overestimate the impact of Christian Dior's first collection when it was shown in Paris in 1947.

July 31, 2017 8:00 AM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton Recruits Jaden Smith & Sophie Turner for Series 7

Unveiled earlier this month, Louis Vuitton’s Fall/Winter 2017-2018 campaign continues to impress as the brand remains...

July 27, 2017 8:00 AM  |  Fashion

Miu Miu F/W2017 Campaign Starring Kate Moss and the Aboah Sisters

The Miu Miu Girl has always been bolder and sexier than her patrician elder sister, the Prada Girl.

July 25, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Just Cavalli F/W2017 Collection

In releasing its latest campaign, Just Cavalli has teamed up with...

July 24, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

René Caovilla F/W2017 COLLECTION

Italian designer René Caovilla has tapped into a new kind of sensual feminine energy with the launch of...

July 18, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Rihanna x Manolo Blahnik Final Collaboration, #SoStoned

For their third and final collaboration, Manolo Blahnik and Rihanna have released the...

July 18, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Beau Souci Fashion Story "Beautiful Worries"

BEAU SOUCI FASHION STORY “Beautiful Worries" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

July 17, 2017 10:00 AM  |  Fashion
Veronika Brusa, Berenik Creative Director

Berenik Opens Soho Boutique & Talenthouse with Dance

Last week, genderless Swiss fashion label Berenik celebrated the opening of its New York City boutique and Talenthouse at 419 Broome...

July 17, 2017 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲