"GLADIATORS, STREET PUNKS, SHARKS: OH MY!": HIGHLIGHTS FROM LONDON'S MENS FASHION WEEK

January 16, 2013 12:28 PM

The AW’13 season kicked off last week in London with three days devoted to men’s collections from burgeoning new talents as well as industry veterans like Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen.

A highlight during the men’s shows was designers Joe Bates, Cozette McCreey & Sid Bryan’s collection for their label, Sibling.  The knitwear designers AW’13 outing drew inspiration from Richard Hell, Jayne County and other early punk rock aesthetics.  Models raced by on a catwalk featuring Hell’s infamous slogan (which also was the title of Legs McNeil and Gillian McCain’s “uncensored oral history of punk” released in 2006) “Please Kill Me,” spelled out in bouquets of brightly colored flowers, adding a cheeky softness to the anarchic attitudes of punk.  The slogan appeared again on the opening look, blooming on the front of a black chunky knit sweatshirt accessorized with matching oversized snood and boxing mitt shaped gloves.  Each look also featured huge layered knit hats reminiscent of an exploding mushroom cloud. Traditional leopard print was quelled in blush pink appearing on track pants, shorts and cardigans, especially noteworthy when deftly injected into panels of Fair Isle printed sweaters and scarves.  The result was entrancing: paving the way for the harder blood red and jet black looks that rounded out the collection’s refreshing nod to punk.

Punk did have some of its roots in London so it wasn’t a surprise that an air of anarchy and a desire for change permeated many of the season’s best collections.  Designers, tired of the traditional menswear staples associated with Saville Row and tailored suiting, sought to push the boundaries of what is sartorially acceptable for men.  Streetwear was one antidote to tradition and influenced the collections of Katie Eary and Astrid Andersen.  Andersen presented her final collection with the assistance of MAN (an incubator for young menswear designers sponsored by Topman and Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East) this season to much success.  A standout look consisted of an inky denim vest accented with copper mink trim along the seams and collar.  In Andersen’s hands, streetwear takes on new life as her bombers, tracksuits, and sweatshirts are realized in the most luxe fabrics.  Katie Eary is also part of the new wave of high-street designers infiltrating London’s menswear scene. Eary’s models were sent down the runway with wet, slicked back hair and donned spiky shark teeth fangs.   Gold chains dripping from the models’ necks completed the look. Rose and shark prints in a palette of contrasting shades of electric pink and blue dominated the collection. The prints appeared on covetable T-s as well as statement outerwear: neoprene perfectos and bombers included.  For the less adventurous, Eary updated black wool coats with ribbed leather sleeves and showed smart black skinny jeans with eyelet lace-ups spiraling down each leg.

Streetwear was less clear-cut than in previous seasons at Shaun Samson’s debut solo show (the past three seasons he showed as part of MAN) but not to any less effect or success.  Highlights included patchworked oversize tops cut like football (American football, not its British counterpart) jerseys and were worn with wide leather wader shorts, furry earmuffs and combat boots.  Intarsia knits also came complete with scribbles of the “Serenity Prayer” and repeated on cozy blankets models slung over their shoulders -perfect for your next nap at an AA meeting.  Iridescent denim puffer vests and jackets rounded out this noteworthy, street-ready collection.

J.W. Anderson’s brand ethos is to distort conventional gender norms.  For his AW’13 menswear outing he took cues from his SS’13 women’s collection and sent his men down the runway in ruffled short shorts or bandeau tops complete with knee-high leather boots.  His narrow tunics could read as feminine cocktail dresses, but perhaps upon closer inspection they alluded to masculine gladiatorial get-ups of yore, showcasing each model’s toned muscles and manly physiques.  Whichever way you perceive the collection, J.W. Anderson’s clothes definitely stimulated thought, elevating his habiliments to the realm of the cerebral.  Such polarizing and perspicacious fashion is suitable for any gender.

 

 

WRITTEN BY: MICHAEL COSTA

 

 

related posts

TWELV MAGAZINE HALLOWEEN PARTY "DEATH ON THE DANCEFLOOR" @HAPPY ENDING

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

November 07, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA x BARBIE

British luxury shoe and accessory designer, Charlotte Olympia, is having her childhood dream come true.

November 07, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "MAO"

FASHION STORY “MAO" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 04, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Hermès - La Fabrique de la Soie

« Hermès »… One of the first things that come to mind when hearing this name is the brand's worldwide famous carré.

November 03, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

VIKTOR & ROLF FIRST MARIAGE COLLECTION WITH JUSTIN ALEXANDER

Nothing is more attention grabbing than pure ingenuity, especially when it is expressed and executed properly.

October 31, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

MOSCHINO S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

MOSCHINO: LET'S PLAY PAPER DOLL DRESS UP! 

60+ Charming Cut-Outs for 34 Dolls

 

October 17, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "ESTEE"

FASHION STORY “ESTEE" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

October 17, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

 

October 14, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

For the first time, the Louis Vuitton fashion show on October 5 took place in the future home of the brand’s store, located exclusively at Paris.

October 12, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

LANVIN PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Lanvin Spring-Summer 2017 runway presentation marks Bouchra Jarrar’s first show and second collection for the French fashion house, as well as reminds us that her eponymous label has now had...

October 01, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENTS PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Spring-Summer 2017 Saint Laurent collection was certainly a finger-tapping moment of anticipation for the French luxury house, as well as for the devoted Saint Laurent following that has been...

September 30, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHROME HEARTS FOR THE WEEKEND'S ‘STARBOY’ COVER

After the release of THE WEEKND’s Beauty Behind the Madness, fans are impatiently awaiting his next big move.

September 29, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

DSQUARED2 FASHION STORY "DSQUARED2"

FASHION STORY “DSQUARED2" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 28, 2016 5:49 PM  |  Fashion

Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2017 ready-to-wear

At Marc Jacobs, the hemlines keep rising and so do the platforms.

September 27, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

YIGAL AZROUËL NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Layers. Embroideries. Details.

September 26, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW PARTY @M1-5LOUNGE

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

September 22, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

HELMUT LANG FASHION STORY "MY SIDE OF THE STREET"

FASHION STORY “MY SIDE OF THE STREET” is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 18, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Erin Fetherston NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Spring-Summer 2017 collection was a markedly important season for Erin Fetherston, serving not only as her 10th Anniversary New York Fashion Week, but also as her first...

September 16, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

KENZO WORLD THE NEW FRAGRANCE VIDEO by Spike Jonze

Formed by Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, KENZO Parfums unveils Kenzo World – the first feminine fragrance that “alludes to the force of the third eye and to spiritual protection...

September 15, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO NYFW S/S2017 Ready-to-Wear

An appraisal of the designs from Christian Siriano’s spring 2017 show would deem his work otherworldly.

September 12, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton Unveils New Fragrance Collection "Les Parfums"

The roles we assume each day, whether it’s being a powerful attorney, a fashion editor, or homemaker are all accompanied by their own specifics.

September 01, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
GUCCI

EYEGASM WORTHY GLASSES TO ACCESSORIZE YOUR B*TCH FACE

UNIQUE SILHOUETTE SUNGLASSES

 

 

August 24, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Lodovico Zordanazzo STORY

Lodovico Zordanazzo is an Italian man with a London soul. Italy is where he was born but London is where he gave birth to his own namesake line of footwear.

August 18, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

TIFFANY & CO. F/W2016 CAMPAIGN WITH Lupita Nyong'o and Elle Fanning

Tiffany & Co. unveiled its new fall 2016 campaign a few days ago, and for the first time in the brand history it features famous faces : Oscar®-winning actress...

August 18, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN

Bubbles popping. Bells ringing. Buses honking. Alessandro Michele has done it again with Gucci’s autumn/winter 2016 campaign.

August 15, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM"

DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

August 12, 2016 2:51 PM  |  Fashion

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN

What do indie bands, crystal sandals, and Grace Hartzel have in common? Well, they are all featured in Giuseppe Zanotti’s latest dazzling ad campaign. 

August 08, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2016 eyewear X Willow Smith

After being crowned a Chanel ambassador and electrifying the steps of the Met Gala in a car coat and clamdiggers this year, the ever creative and always fierce, Willow Smith,...

August 05, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Balmain F/W2016 Campaign: WOLVES by Kanye West

“From the moment I heard that song, I knew we had to use it for this campaign,” Olivier Rousteing proclaims.

August 03, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Citizens of Humanity Fall Collection

Skinny, slouchy, or flared, a nice pair of denim jeans is a must in any fashionista’s wardrobe.

August 03, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2016 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION

You can always count on Karl Lagerfeld to create some major intrigue! Just when you think you've seen it all, he shows it's only half time and that he remains a force to be reckoned with.

August 03, 2016 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY "GEISHA ON FIRE @ M1-5 lounge"

 Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

July 25, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

VIKTOR & ROLF F/W2016 HAUTE COUTURE COLLECTION

Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren took a trip to the past to create an extraordinary new collection – all from previous collections.

July 14, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "TANABATA PARTY @LADUREE GARDEN & AFTER PARTY @HAPPY ENDING NYC"

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

July 12, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Balmain S/S2017 Mens Collection

I love Olivier Rousteing.

July 10, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIL SANDER NAVY FASHION STORY "SWEET INTUITION"

FASHION STORY "SWEET INTUITION" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

July 06, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲