"GLADIATORS, STREET PUNKS, SHARKS: OH MY!": HIGHLIGHTS FROM LONDON'S MENS FASHION WEEK

January 16, 2013 12:28 PM

The AW’13 season kicked off last week in London with three days devoted to men’s collections from burgeoning new talents as well as industry veterans like Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen.

A highlight during the men’s shows was designers Joe Bates, Cozette McCreey & Sid Bryan’s collection for their label, Sibling.  The knitwear designers AW’13 outing drew inspiration from Richard Hell, Jayne County and other early punk rock aesthetics.  Models raced by on a catwalk featuring Hell’s infamous slogan (which also was the title of Legs McNeil and Gillian McCain’s “uncensored oral history of punk” released in 2006) “Please Kill Me,” spelled out in bouquets of brightly colored flowers, adding a cheeky softness to the anarchic attitudes of punk.  The slogan appeared again on the opening look, blooming on the front of a black chunky knit sweatshirt accessorized with matching oversized snood and boxing mitt shaped gloves.  Each look also featured huge layered knit hats reminiscent of an exploding mushroom cloud. Traditional leopard print was quelled in blush pink appearing on track pants, shorts and cardigans, especially noteworthy when deftly injected into panels of Fair Isle printed sweaters and scarves.  The result was entrancing: paving the way for the harder blood red and jet black looks that rounded out the collection’s refreshing nod to punk.

Punk did have some of its roots in London so it wasn’t a surprise that an air of anarchy and a desire for change permeated many of the season’s best collections.  Designers, tired of the traditional menswear staples associated with Saville Row and tailored suiting, sought to push the boundaries of what is sartorially acceptable for men.  Streetwear was one antidote to tradition and influenced the collections of Katie Eary and Astrid Andersen.  Andersen presented her final collection with the assistance of MAN (an incubator for young menswear designers sponsored by Topman and Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East) this season to much success.  A standout look consisted of an inky denim vest accented with copper mink trim along the seams and collar.  In Andersen’s hands, streetwear takes on new life as her bombers, tracksuits, and sweatshirts are realized in the most luxe fabrics.  Katie Eary is also part of the new wave of high-street designers infiltrating London’s menswear scene. Eary’s models were sent down the runway with wet, slicked back hair and donned spiky shark teeth fangs.   Gold chains dripping from the models’ necks completed the look. Rose and shark prints in a palette of contrasting shades of electric pink and blue dominated the collection. The prints appeared on covetable T-s as well as statement outerwear: neoprene perfectos and bombers included.  For the less adventurous, Eary updated black wool coats with ribbed leather sleeves and showed smart black skinny jeans with eyelet lace-ups spiraling down each leg.

Streetwear was less clear-cut than in previous seasons at Shaun Samson’s debut solo show (the past three seasons he showed as part of MAN) but not to any less effect or success.  Highlights included patchworked oversize tops cut like football (American football, not its British counterpart) jerseys and were worn with wide leather wader shorts, furry earmuffs and combat boots.  Intarsia knits also came complete with scribbles of the “Serenity Prayer” and repeated on cozy blankets models slung over their shoulders -perfect for your next nap at an AA meeting.  Iridescent denim puffer vests and jackets rounded out this noteworthy, street-ready collection.

J.W. Anderson’s brand ethos is to distort conventional gender norms.  For his AW’13 menswear outing he took cues from his SS’13 women’s collection and sent his men down the runway in ruffled short shorts or bandeau tops complete with knee-high leather boots.  His narrow tunics could read as feminine cocktail dresses, but perhaps upon closer inspection they alluded to masculine gladiatorial get-ups of yore, showcasing each model’s toned muscles and manly physiques.  Whichever way you perceive the collection, J.W. Anderson’s clothes definitely stimulated thought, elevating his habiliments to the realm of the cerebral.  Such polarizing and perspicacious fashion is suitable for any gender.

 

 

WRITTEN BY: MICHAEL COSTA

 

 

related posts

TID WATCHES"TID NO.1"

TID is a Stockholm based watch brand founded in 2012 by Ola Eriksson, Petrus Palm.r and design studio Form Us With Love.

October 31, 2014 6:22 PM  |  Fashion

CLARKS SOHO STORE GRAND OPENING

The British brand CLARKS has a long history of shoe making and has forever made a mark in the industry.

October 31, 2014 3:29 PM  |  Fashion

CARA DELEVINGNE'S CAPSULE COLLECTION FOR DKNY

October 28, 2014 6:37 PM  |  Fashion

THANK YOU FOR GAVE US A DREAM WARDROBE"OSCAR DE LA RENTA"

“I want to make clothes that people will wear, not styles that will make a big splash on the runway.”

- Oscar de la Renta -

October 24, 2014 1:30 PM  |  Fashion

JILL STUART'S NEW FLAGSHIP STORE IN SOHO

Jill Stuart recently announced the opening of her new flagship store and marked the occasion with an opening reception on Thursday the 16th of October.  

October 20, 2014 12:51 PM  |  Fashion

KATE MOSS AND STELLA MCCARTNEY FOR BREAST CANCER AWARENESS

Kate Moss and Stella McCartney for Breast Cancer Awareness

 

October 17, 2014 1:40 PM  |  Fashion

LANVIN PUBLISHES PHOTO BOOK LANVIN: I LOVE YOU

The French fashion house of Lanvin recently published a stunning coffee table book titled Lanvin: I Love You.

October 16, 2014 4:36 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY"NEW GIRL ON THE BLOCK"

Exclusive Fashion Story "NEW GIRL ON THE BLOCK" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

October 16, 2014 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

GISELE BUNDCHEN'S FOR CHANEL N°5 NEW FRAGRANCE ADS

You can see GISELE BUNDCHEN in CHANEL N°5's newest film "THE ONE THAT I WANT." The first shot, taken by Great Gatsby director BAZ LUHRMANN, shows BUNDCHEN sporting CHANEL's wetsuit and...

October 15, 2014 1:05 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

MIU MIU SS 2015 WOMAN'S COLLECTION

“I always loved aesthetics. Not particularly fashion, but an idea of beauty.” - Miucicca Prada -

October 13, 2014 5:47 PM  |  Fashion

GIVENCHY S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Givenchy2015 SS came off sexy and hard, fierce breeze was passing through with the long tight skinned leather boots.  Designer, Riccardo Tisci said NO!

October 10, 2014 3:03 PM  |  Fashion

ELIE SAAB S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

“I'm an ocean, because I'm really deep. If you search deep enough you can find rare exotic treasures.” 

- Christina Aguilera -

 

October 09, 2014 2:05 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENT S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Energetic, aggressive, and attractive yet classy and somehow elegant designs stormed the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week Spring / Summer 2015 on 29th September 2014.

October 08, 2014 8:25 PM  |  Fashion

LANVIN S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015 is walking on the scene from this week, LANVIN reveal Spring / Summer 2015 womenswear collection which is celebrated with its 125th anniversary as well.

 

October 08, 2014 4:13 PM  |  Fashion

COMME DES GARCONS S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Blood-like passionate red were on the stage of Comme des Garçons SS2015.  They are all in total different figures and...

October 03, 2014 3:12 PM  |  Fashion

MAISON KITSUNÉ NYFW 2014 VIDEO OF “EFFORTLESS FRENCH”

This year, a Parisian fashion brand MAISON KITSUNÉ presented its first official presentation in New York during NYFW S/S 2015.

October 02, 2014 7:45 PM  |  Fashion

VALENTINO S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Maison Valentino, renowned for iconic and romantic Italian design showed their Spring 2015 collection during Paris Fashion Week.

October 02, 2014 6:12 PM  |  Fashion

CHANEL S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

CHANEL SPRING/SUMMER 2015 READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION 

 

October 01, 2014 10:52 PM  |  Fashion

ELEANOR LAMBERT INTERVIEW/FASHION STORY

Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "ELEANOR LAMBERT" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

October 01, 2014 3:38 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY"FULL METAL BLACK"

Exclusive Fashion Story "FULL METAL BLACK" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

September 30, 2014 6:39 PM  |  Fashion

CHLOE S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

“I ought to be jealous of the tower, She is more famous than I am.” - Gustave Eiffel -  

September 30, 2014 6:16 PM  |  Fashion

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

Last weekend, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER showed his last ready-to-wear womenswear collection in Paris Fashion Week S/S 2015.

September 29, 2014 9:31 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW 2014 PARTY VIDEO

TWELV presented New York Fashion Week S/S 2015 party at Gilded Lily on September 8th, 2014. We associated with videographer, Margaret Rowland, and the exciting party video release now!

September 25, 2014 6:53 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVAlLI S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

ROBERTO CAVALLI shows its energy and wild as usual for Spring / Summer 2015 collection on Milan Fashion Week few days ago.

 

September 25, 2014 5:41 PM  |  Fashion

NEW FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN: MY BURBERRY

NEW FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN: MY BURBERRY 

 

The new MY BURBERRY ad sincerely encapsulate the fragrance. 

 

September 24, 2014 5:43 PM  |  Fashion

Christian Siriano FALL/WINTER 2014 editorial lookbook

Seemingly, Fall decided to make an appearance early in New York City this year.  CHRISTIAN SIRIANO has revealed its new designs of luxurious dresses for Fall.

September 18, 2014 8:59 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVALLI FASHION STORY "BREAK ON THROUGH"

Exclusive Fashion Story "BREAK ON THROUGH" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

September 18, 2014 2:26 PM  |  Fashion

CALVIN KLEIN NYFW S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

New York Fashion Week S/S 2015 just passed, CALVIN KLEIN amazed our eyes by their new minimalism collection.

September 17, 2014 6:02 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti Opens Its Sixth U.S. Store

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Design has once again set up shop on American soil.

September 16, 2014 4:35 PM  |  Fashion
Photograph by JOHAN TREVINO

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW'14 PARTY @GILDED LILY

TWELV MAGAZING FASHION WEEK SS15 PARTY

 

September 15, 2014 8:12 PM  |  Fashion

David Beckham Celebrates The Launch Of “Off Road”

Biking enthusiast DAVID BECKHAM will join the global launch of “OFF ROAD” with the world famous photographer PETER LINDBERGH on Wednesday, September 10th, 2014, which will be held at a British...

September 14, 2014 7:50 PM  |  Fashion

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The history of VAN CLEEF & ARPELS began with a love story in 1895, ESTELLE ARPELS, the daughter of a precious stone merchant, got married with ALFRED VAN CLEEF, the son of a lapidary...

September 14, 2014 7:30 PM  |  Fashion

PRADA FALL/WINTER 2014 CAMPAIGN

With a selection of bold colors and textiles, the fall/winter 2014 womenswear campaign for Prada tiptoes the line between mystery and immodesty.

September 09, 2014 7:45 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON 2014FW CAMPAIGN HOUSE OF ADVENTURE: “SERIES 1”

NICOLAS GHESQUIERE’s first campaign as the creative director for LOUIS VUITTON’s women’s line, “SERIES 1,” has made its debut in many forms.

September 04, 2014 5:40 PM  |  Fashion

RALPH LAUREN MIDNIGHT ROMANCE FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN

Delicious, elegant, gently sweet, and somehow mysterious; RALPH LAUREN brings to an extraordinary romantic love with a beautiful woman with natural beauty inside.

September 02, 2014 9:08 PM  |  Fashion

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID

Art is essentially healing our spirit, soul and body; TOM FORD succeeds expressing an art of human body and the right resonance for their new Black Orchis fragrance campaign.  

August 25, 2014 6:02 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲