"THE GRAPHIC SKY'S THE LIMIT:" HIGHLIGHTS FROM MILAN MENS FASHION WEEK

January 20, 2013 3:08 PM

The next stop on the fashion calendar brings us to Italy, first to Florence with Pitti Uomo filled with menswear tradeshows and finally to Milan where some of the most renowned designers showed their newest collections for the AW’13 season.

As special guests of Pitti Uomo, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon presented their newest outing for Kenzo in Florence.  Steering away from their jungle and safari playfulness of past seasons, the collection took an austere turn, perhaps literally upwards, and into the sky.  Sprawling cumulous cloud prints permeated the collection in periwinkle, oxblood, and navy -some iterations even resembled surrealist camouflage.  The silhouette was also more severe than ever with boxy oversized tops and strong-shouldered flight jackets that were worn over slim tapered trousers tucked into covetable shoes: leather high tops complete with central industrial zipped hardware.  The designers also continued their successful collaboration with Delfina Delettrez who added militaristic accents with metal pocket squares and button coverings.  The collection was a refreshing change for the new Kenzo image that Lim and Leon began cultivating in 2011.

The somber color palette with pops of sky blue, as well as the oversized outerwear shown at Kenzo foreshadowed some of the emerging trends that we saw in subsequent shows in Milan.  At Gucci, Frida Giannini presented what perhaps was her finest menswear outing to date.  Traditional suiting and military tailoring prevailed, but felt fresh in Giannini’s hands when employed in surprisingly smart colors like a pea green cadet jacket or an oversized French blue officers coat.  For evening, tuxedos were cut slim and streamlined in scintillating tweeds.  But the bowties were the only neckwear from Gucci this season: collared shirts were loosened at the neck, or matching herringbone and tweed sport coats were worn with mohair jumpers instead of rigid button-downs.  This aesthetic statement diffused the intensity of such strict tailoring and militant references, resulting in a seductive new approach to menswear: formal, yet charmingly insouciant.

Necktie lovers fear not.  In her eclectic collection for Versace (there was grafittied denim, window pane and Prince of Wales checked separates, and voluminous and baggy leathers abound) Donatella accessorized her looks with wide ties that ended way above the navel.  When realized in exaggerated giraffe, zebra, and leopard print they had a cheeky “Fred-Flinstone-chic” feel.  Those intricately detailed sheer intimates her models dauntlessly donned under evening coats with knee-high combat boots had us exclaiming “Yabba-dabba-doo!”

Another highlight was Silvia Venturini Fendi’s latest men’s collection for Fendi.  Silvia has a knack for presenting the pinnacle runway collection: thematically focused, filled with the most covetable AND wearable pieces, and spliced with show-stopping editorial looks fit for editors and the street-style set to be endlessly photographed in come next season (or for that matter, later in Paris, if you’re lucky enough to cop a piece straight from the runway).  Starting in a palette of somber midnight blue, inky blacks and the occasional periwinkle pop, the Fendi man graduated into full-on fur, pelt, and leather looks that jived perfectly with Venturini Fendi’s Nordic theme.  A standout was an oversized fur coat complete with oversized hood (hoods were a constant theme throughout) worn over supple butterscotch leather pants stacked into shin-high fur boots, obviously intended more for the urban admirer of winter wonderlands than those ice-fishing in Alaska.  If those fluffy fur boots didn’t float your boat, desert boots came in espresso and caramel with hints of fur on the vamp, and traditional leather boots had see-through, ice-like, outsoles: all hits in their own right.

Finally (a personal favorite of mine), was Neil Barrett’s innovative and graphic outing for AW’13.  Those phenomenal oversized coats that were featured in his AW’12 ad campaign made a glorious return, this time in a more undulating, cocoon shape thanks to smart belting on the interior.  In fact, the way Barrett chose to fasten his clothes this season added to the collection’s graphic nature that he explained was influenced both by the pared-back ‘90’s and the Bauhaus.  A constant motif was luxurious breastplates in leather, suede, and pony hair that fixated themselves underneath Barrett’s sinuous outerwear and even tailored blazers.  As has also been a concurring theme at the menswear shows this season, we saw the ubiquitous (and glorious!) return of the skinny, tailored pant.  Mixed media jumpers were also a standout in obscured graphic “fabric-blocking,” and lead perfectly into the final looks of black and white zig-zag patterning.  They evoked that Twin Peaks, spooky vibe, the perfect graphic and emotional conclusion to Barrett’s latest ingenious outing.

 

 

WRITTEN BY: MICHAEL COSTA

 

 

related posts

DIOR HOMME X TWELV MAGAZINE EDITORIAL VIDEO - NOSTALGIA

Exclusive Dior Homme Editorial Video, "NOSTALGIA" is now avaialble!

Check inside for TWELV's Editorial Video

 

August 18, 2014 9:46 PM  |  Fashion

Dior VIII MONTAIGNE & Dior VIII GRAND BAL WATCH COLLECTIONS

Dior VIII Montaigne and Dior VIII Grand Bal Watch Collections

August 18, 2014 3:26 PM  |  Fashion

JILL STUART FASHION STORY "JESS"

Exclusive Jill Stuart Fashion Story "JESS" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 15, 2014 10:59 AM  |  Fashion
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANI BERBERIAN

DALILA PASOTTI JEWELRY

A silvery metallic piece fills just enough to delegate a simple look; a unique thorny feature is a coniferous neutral that works well regardless of the season.

August 13, 2014 2:16 PM  |  Fashion

MORGAN SAYLOR EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW/FASHION STORY

Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "MORGAN SAYLOR" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 01, 2014 6:56 PM  |  Fashion

ADOPTED X TWELV PARTY

Last Friday, ADOPTED and TWELV Magazine partnered up to host an exciting party at the ADOPTED headquarters in Soho.

July 30, 2014 3:25 PM  |  Fashion

Fendi Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign backstage shots

For FENDI’s fall/winter 2014 campaign, KARL LAGERFELD stepped behind the cameras to shoot the ad.

July 30, 2014 8:08 AM  |  Fashion

Lanvin 2014 Autumn Winter Campaign

We have never seen a more fashionable family portrait until the LAVIN 2014 Autumn/ Winter campaign. In the ad, TIM WALKER photographs model EDIE CAMPBELL with her entire.

July 28, 2014 3:51 PM  |  Fashion

DIOR HOMME FASHION STORY "DON'T CRY"

Exclusive Fashion Story "DON'T CRY" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

July 28, 2014 1:21 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel Fall-Winter 2014/15 pre-collection Film Private View

When it comes to presentation, KARL LAGERFELD is definitely an expert.

July 22, 2014 10:47 AM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti 20th Anniversary in Marina Ibiza Port

There’s no better place to party than Ibiza so it comes as no surprise that GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI celebrated his 20 years of his creative work in the stunning location.

July 21, 2014 3:40 PM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #2: Hello Bruna

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

July 17, 2014 12:10 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti Design FW14-15 AD CAMPAIGN

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN’s FW14-15 campaign is the definition of effortless chic.

July 17, 2014 6:37 AM  |  Fashion

VALENTINO F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

 This Haute Couture season seemed to be the occasion for referencing the past.

July 15, 2014 2:46 PM  |  Fashion

Gisele Bündchen escorted the Louis Vuitton trophy case for the final of the FIFA World Cup

Since 1854, LOUIS VUITTON has been internationally renowned for its unique, innovative styles that are of the highest quality.

July 15, 2014 7:31 AM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

On Tuesday July 8th, for the presentation of the CHANEL FALL 2014 Haute Couture collection, KARL LAGERFELD, turned the GRAND PALAIS into a huge terrace evoking the décor of a Parisian apartment....

July 11, 2014 6:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIMMY CHOO AUTUMN WINTER 2014 COLLECTION

The Jimmy Choo Autumn Winter 2014 Collection was recently released, showcased in their most recent advertising campaign. The campaign’s video, starring British model Kit Harington.

July 11, 2014 5:49 PM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN DIOR F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

RAF SIMONS travelled back in time to bring us modern clothes at the CHRISTIAN DIOR 2014 COUTURE show on July 7.

July 10, 2014 4:29 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVALLI AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-2015 ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Just Like Marilyn

July 10, 2014 4:03 PM  |  Fashion

ATELIER VERSACE F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

Buckles, chokers, and corsets are a few of the details that amplified the 31 looks shown in the ATELIER VERSACE FALL 2014 COUTURE show on July 6in Paris, France.  This season, DONATELLA VERSACE...

July 09, 2014 6:35 PM  |  Fashion

JAMES MCAVOY FOR PRADA FALL/ WINTER 2014 CAMPAIGN

Inspired by German avant-garde and rigid architectural lines, PRADA’s new fall/winter 2014 campaign staring GOLDEN GLOBE nominated actor, JAMEX MCAVOY, resembles a still out of moody, intense...

July 07, 2014 4:56 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON COLLABORATES WITH FIFA

Football and fashion may seem like two fields that never intertwine. But in actuality, both industries have come together in the past and will continue to do so in the future.

June 26, 2014 4:19 PM  |  Fashion

FENDI FUN LAUNCHES AT HARRODS

Italian fashion house FENDI brings amusement to HARRODS with its new amazing pop-up shop, FENDI FUN.

June 13, 2014 2:54 PM  |  Fashion

HAIR STORY "WALK THIS WAY"

Exclusive Futuristic Hair Story "WALK THIS WAY" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

June 10, 2014 8:28 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "SOUR GIRL"

Exclusive Futuristic Fashion Story "SOUR GIRL" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

June 08, 2014 1:07 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENT PERMANENT AND PREFALL CAMPAIGN

As of last week, Yves Saint Laurent released 45 photographs with their permanent and Pre-Fall 2014 collection worn exclusively by model Grace Hartzel.

June 06, 2014 5:03 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "JAZZ NIGHT" PARTY

Last Friday, TWELV hosted its jazz party in its 38th street studios.  A slew of models, designers, photographers, and make-up artists such as ANSONI made their way up to TWELV’s sixth floor suite...

June 05, 2014 4:53 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON 'THE ICONS AND THE ICONOCLASTS'

 In light of their most recent project, The Icons and The Iconoclasts, Louis Vuitton has chosen a select set of collaborators that delve into more than just fashion.

June 05, 2014 3:16 PM  |  Fashion

MOSCHINO ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN Fall/Winter 2014

SUPERMODEL LINDA EVANGELISTA IS THE NEW FACE OF MOSCHINO

June 04, 2014 5:17 PM  |  Fashion

VICTOR & ROLF FASHION STORY "JUST A BOY"

Exclusive Futuristic Fashion Story "JUST A BOY" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

June 04, 2014 5:07 PM  |  Fashion
Courtesy Photo

RALPH LAUREN X ABBEY ROAD STUDIOS

On May 21st ABBEY ROAD STUDIOS was treated with a glimpse of RALPH LAUREN’s Spring 2014 collection.

May 30, 2014 2:28 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "THE GIRL NEXT DOOR"

Exclusive Futuristic Fashion Story "THE GIRL NEXT DOOR" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

May 30, 2014 2:05 AM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #1: METRO GIRL

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

May 28, 2014 4:24 PM  |  Fashion

HENRIK VIBSKOV'S 3 YEAR ANNIVERSARY

Last week on May 16th, the TWELV team was generously invited to HENRIK VIBSKOV's three year anniversary gathering at his boutique in Manhattan.

May 24, 2014 2:20 PM  |  Fashion
CARA DELEVINGNE

FENDI AND ICONIC WOMEN COME TOGETHER FOR PEEK-A-BOO CHARITY

Some of us may never be as flawless as CARA DELEVINGNE or ADELE but at least we can have a pocketbook that is.

May 22, 2014 6:37 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2015 COLLECTION

Last Saturday, fashion’s elite gathered to witness the much-anticipated LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE ’15 COLLECTION show in Monaco.

May 21, 2014 4:26 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲