Interview: ThreeASFOUR x Epson's cymaSCOPE Capsule

April 26, 2018 10:00 AM

All clothing design involves an amalgamation between form and function and a negotiation between art and commerce. ThreeASFOUR, the avant garde design collective founded on the Lower East Side in 2005, has consistently favored an output that is more form than function, and more art than commerce. In fact, they see themselves as artists whose chosen medium is fashion, rather than as fashionistas who dutifully study trend forecasts and roll out one fan-friendly collection after another, year after year. 

But if you get the aesthetic of threeASFOUR, then you get threeASFOUR. You will make it a point to acquire a few of their pieces each season which will remain in your archives forever. ThreeASFOUR clothes never go out of style because they were never in style. But the woman or man who is bold and savvy enough to incorporate ThreeASFOUR into their wardrobe is always stylish. 

I could tell you about a cone-collared car coat sculpted in leather and wool from F/W 2010 or the luminous peach dress with a  patterned texture reminiscent of a puffer fish’s skin from S/S 2007. But the clothes themselves are just a part of the creation process. Before a single piece of muslin is draped, the manifestation of a new garment begins with a philosophical exploration involving sacred geometry, consciousness and cultural coexistence. Yep, I’m not exactly clear on all that either, so I figured it would be best to query threeASFOUR themselves (Gabriel Asfour, Angela Donhauser, and Adi Gil), and let them explain everything in their own inimitable fashion:

 

ThreeASFOUR was one of 13 design teams to participate in Epson’s “Digital Couture Project” during New York Fashion Week F/W 2018 which showcased looks produced using Epson’s textile printing technology. How did you become involved with the project, and what inspired you to use the cymatic photographs of Linden Gledhill as your print and palette?

We were introduced to Epson by Mandie Erickson from Seventh House. It was a natural collaboration for threeASFOUR, a chance to experiment with their Sublimation Printing technique. We have been immersed in sound geometry, exploring different themes of the subject and Cymascope-measuring the geometry of sound in water fit right into that series. Throughout our research, we discovered the powerful images of Linden Gledhill who was photographing water vibrating through sound, and he agreed to collaborate on this collection.

Was the production of a capsule collection a natural offshoot of the Epson project or was that part of the plan from the beginning?

ThreeASFOUR saw this collection as a special project that took place between seasons and took this opportunity to introduce similar future collaborations as exciting surprises between seasons.    

CymaSCOPE pays homage to archetypal threeASFOUR silhouettes: the layered puffer coat, the fitted black dress with an asymmetric hemline, etc. Did you reproduce classic ThreeASFOUR designs with the printed textiles, or create entirely new looks for “Digital Couture?”

For the project, threeASFOUR introduced these digital prints in a selection of classic silhouettes, intended to appeal to our long time customers.

Did your design process differ from garment to garment or in general, did you start with the printed textile and then begin to carve out the silhouette, or did you start with a silhouette and match it with a suitable print? 

We started with the prints and then assigned the different styles then went into placing each layout specifically to the pattern and garment construction.

Are the 10 looks in the CymaSCOPE collection for sale from retail stockists or can collectors contact the atelier for purchasing information?

We are offering these items only in few select boutiques worldwide as well as through personal made-to-order

I love the way the tights and shoes match the dresses in several of the looks. Would collectors be able to procure the entire look or is that more of a runway feature?

For this collection we created shoe covers that are incorporated in the leggings and bodysuits and those are offered for purchase only through our atelier.

In the past, you’ve produced garments using a 3-D printer. Did that technology inform your work with the Epson textile printer in any way or are the processes completely divergent?

The processes differ as they require the use of different computer programs.

The threeASFOUR design collective is often described as a group of artists who have chosen fashion as a medium, and indeed your work is in the permanent collections of The Museum at F.I.T., the Cooper-Hewitt, the Met Costume Institute and London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. How do you balance your creative exploration of form with the fashion designer’s mandate for functionality, and the marketplace’s demand for affordable price points?

ThreeASFOUR considers garment creation primarily a way of expressing a feeling or a message. Then, if the garment has a possible wearable outcome, the team will work on it further (through a few iterations) considering its functionality on and off the body.

We have been following ThreeASFOUR for a long time, and remember the old days when there were, in fact, four of you! How have you three (Gabriel, Angela and Adi) maintained such a strong working relationship and friendship for more than a decade? Are there particular points that you often hit heads on and have to work toward a compromise, or have you learned to function as a single unit? 

Since we were three, the dynamics changed to a triangular relationship where the rules of the game are determined by 3 individual players (and not the 4 we were used to). At threeASFOUR we function mainly as a family with agreements as well as differences but in a threesome there is not the chance for equal sides to get in conflict. It is always a majority: two versus one.

It has been about a decade since your Circle Bag appeared on an episode of Sex and the City, and people are still talking about that bag! Would you consider a mass-produced luxury handbag to both extend your brand’s reach and to generate revenue to support your more avant-garde work? 

Yes of course, it is in the planning. We are looking into handbags and shoes as an extension of the brand and the business.

Unexpected collaborations– with Yoko Ono, Travis Fitch, Patricia Correa Velasquez, and now Epson and Linden Gledhill– take your aesthetic into new directions and continue your creative exploration into consciousness and cultural coexistence. Who are you looking to collaborate with for upcoming projects? Can you hint at what you are working on for next season?  

We just had a super exciting collaboration / cultural exchange with the National Museum of Art & Ministry of Culture in Cuba as well as the Rockefeller brothers in New York on a retrospective fashion show that was held in Havana on April 13, 2018. More to come…

 

INTERVIEW BY KAREN FRAGALA-SMITH

 

PHOTO CREDIT: THREEASFOUR

 

related posts

Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between

Rei Kawakubo is one of the most important and influential designers of the past 40 years,” said Andrew Bolton, Head Curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute...

July 05, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU "ROOM303" BY Alasdair McLellan

By emulating an all familiar, oversaturated photographic aesthetic—those snaps of friends in the club, a family packed in a restaurant booth, an evening traversing the city, or an illuminated sea...

June 27, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Nomos Glashütte Aqua Series Watch Collection

Independent German watchmaking house Nomos Glashütte has just released the...

June 26, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Roberto Cavalli F/W2017 Campaign Starring Eva Herzigova

With the launch of Roberto Cavalli’s Fall/Winter 2017 campaign comes a bold retelling of the classic Italian love affair.

June 20, 2017 1:16 PM  |  Fashion

3.1 Phillip Lim Fashion Story "3.1"

FASHION STORY “3.1" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

June 12, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

BEAU SOUCI VIDEO STORY "LIFE GOES ON"

VIDEO STORY “LIFE GOES ON" is now available! 

View the video on the right and check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

June 09, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti F/W2017 Collection “Le Rouge Et Le Noir”

Italian designer Giuseppe Zanotti delivers a refreshing dose of dichotomy with the introduction of his Fall/Winter 2017 campaign.

June 02, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons: The Power of Icons

An L and a V. The combination of these two letters has become one of the most widely recognized trademarks in the world, let alone the fashion world.

May 30, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

“Who is Gabrielle?” #GabrielleChanel

Everyone knows Chanel 2.55, the bag famously created by Gabrielle Chanel in February 1955 and named after the month and year of its birth.

May 01, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIL SANDER × NENDO OBJECTEXITILE CAPSULE COLLECTION

Fashion meets design in the conceptual Nendo x Jil Sander Capsule Collection debuting during Milan Design Week.

April 26, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DKNY FASHION STORY "VASILISA IN DKNY"

FASHION STORY “VASILISA IN DKNY" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

April 24, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Tiffany & Co. New HardWear Collection with Lady Gaga

Last year, TWELV introduced the new Tiffany & Co. “Legendary Style” series.  The campaign series began in Fall 2016, and featured Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o and actress Elle Fanning...

April 21, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "CLAIRE DE REGGE"

Interview / Fashion Story

"CLAIRE DE REGGE" is now available!

Check inside for the full page of editorial

April 20, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

KISSES FROM JILL STUART NYFW F/W2017 BACKSTAGE

The runway is a facade for designers to stage their vision, the strictly choreographed back-and-forth of models shinning a never-ending flow of clothes.

April 17, 2017 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "CORY ROBERTS"

FASHION STORY “CORY ROBERTS" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

April 13, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Contemporary Luxury Welcomes #TFWGucci

The swaths of newfound Gucci aficionados are certain to be charmed by the fashion house’s latest collaborative campaign, #TFWGucci (“That Feel When” or “That Feeling When”), a meme-based, creative...

April 12, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY “MY OWN STORY"

FASHION STORY “MY OWN STORY" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 28, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "PLAY DEAD"

FASHION STORY "PLAY DEAD" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 22, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHANEL PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Karl Lagerfeld has done it once again with an impressive “launch” of Chanel’s Fall-Winter 2017 ready-to-wear collection.

March 15, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "PLASTIC WOMAN"

FASHION STORY "PLASTIC WOMAN" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 14, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada swept fashion connoisseurs into a teenage dream at the Miu Miu Fall-Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show.  For the designer’s more spontaneous...

March 14, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "DEN DANSKE PIGE"

FASHION STORY "DEN DANSKE PIGE" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 13, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Before witnessing the rhythmic succession of models down the catwalk, the audience experiences an atmosphere created by a ballet of sounds and lights dancing...

March 13, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

PRADA F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

We live in a highly politicized climate, and the fashion world is no exception.

March 10, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENT PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The insurmountable responsibility of designing a collection for Saint Laurent goes without saying.

March 07, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIL SANDER NAVY FASHION STORY "MIRROR MIRROR"

JIL SANDER NAVY Fashion Story "MIRROR MIRROR" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

March 03, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Kicking off Milan fashion week, Gucci introduced its Fall-Winter 2017 ready-to-wear collection in “The Alchemist’s Garden: an anti-modern laboratory.” Septum piercings, shining...

March 02, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Kiesza Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KIESZA"

Kiesza Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KIESZA" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

February 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
Sita Abellan

TWELV MAGAZINE X NYCULT NYFW FW2017 PARTY @THE BOWERY HOTEL

Find and enjoy more photos on BFA and ...

February 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Miu Miu S/S2017 COLLECTION “Suddenly Next Summer”

Imagine yourself wearing whimsical patterns on a warm sunny day on the sandy coast of California.

February 06, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti S/S2017 Collection “Raw Beauty”

The latest Giuseppe Zanotti advertising campaign was captured by Mario Sorrenti, and Spring-Summer 2017 “Raw Beauty” certainly does not...

February 01, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NEW YEAR PARTY @HAPPY ENDING

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

January 20, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Dior Lady Art

"I have always been interested in getting my work out into the world," said artist Chris Martin in a promotional video shot for his collaboration with Dior, entitled "Dior...

January 11, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Fashion story "The Golden Child "

FASHION STORY "THE GOLDEN CHILD" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

January 04, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel 2017 Métiers d’Art Collection

Karl Lagerfeld introduces Chanel’s beautiful Pre-Spring collection at the luxurious Ritz Paris.

December 09, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "HAPPY ENDING"

FASHION STORY "HAPPY ENDING" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

December 01, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲