Interview: Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang Unite Knitwear and Tech with PH5

February 10, 2018 11:00 AM

To be truly innovative, a designer must be able to control a garment's construction down to each thread. That's what makes PH5, the fashion house created by Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang, so extraordinary. Their luxury knits, with a mod-spaceage aesthetic are programmed thread-by-thread through a partnership between Zhang, the creative director, and Lin, who oversees production at her family's factory in Dongguan, China. The result is a seamless hybrid of form and function, technology and human ingenuity, glamour and fun. 

"We have full control over everything, from start to finish," explains Zhang, from the balcony of the Samsung 837 building, as 17 models in head-to-toe PH5 knits frolicked in the staging area below. The mission to take knits where they have never gone before begins with Zhang sending a series of sketches to the engineers at the Lin factory, and through a series of correspondences, they arrive at the colorful works of wearable art featured on the models. 

Signature PH5 design elements such as stripes, A-line skirts, asymmetric silhouettes, high-leg bodysuits, and straight-legged jumpsuits are present in the new collection as well, but for Fall/Winter 2018, Lin and Zhang decided to pay homage to Italian designers of the 1980s with vibrant colors: a red slack-sleeved dress and magenta A-line skirt with white trim are particularly striking. But for Lin and Zhang, functionality is just as important as design. They have engineered their garments to be comfortable on the skin, resistant to pilling and stretching, and easy to wash and care for.  

Because technology is such an integral part of Lin and Zhang's design and production, they paid homage to the Dongguan factory that brings their ideas to life with a virtual reality display. It afforded curiosity-seekers at their fashion show a 360-degree look at the dozens of massive machines with flashing lights and knobs, controlled by highly-skilled engineers and machinists, that spit out meticulously constructed jumpsuits, skirts and dresses. In a further nod to the importance of tech in design, PH5 chose two of its models from Girls Who Code, a national non-profit dedicated to increasing interest and participation in tech fields by young women. 

PH5 designs have been compared to Missoni, because of their knit construction and signature stripes, but I look at it more along the lines of early Pucci. Each piece is timeless and collectable, as wearable now as it will be in decades. To get your hands on a piece of Ph5 fashion history, you can check out their own e-commerce site, or look for select designs online at Shopbop and Moda Operandi. But if you are hunting for the knit knee-high boots seen in the F/W 2018 show, be forewarned. They were created in small numbers for the models to wear at the show, but Lin and Zhang have not yet decided whether to add them to their upcoming production run. On behalf of myself and several other shoe-hounds milling about the show, we desperately hope the turquoise boots get the green light.   

 

WRITTEN BY KAREN-FRAGALA SMITH

 

PHOTOGRAPHY: RYOSUKE MIYAI

 

related posts

TWELV MAGAZINE "TANABATA PARTY" @LADUREE

Summer is for easy nights with beautiful people, and the love that comes with it. That's what Tanabata, the Japanese midsummer festival, is all about.

July 11, 2018 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DOLCE&GABBANA "GRAFFITI SUNGLASSES ARE AS FUN AS DRAWING ON WALLS"

"GRAFFITI SUNGLASSES ARE AS FUN AS DRAWING ON WALLS" 
 
 
June 19, 2018 5:00 PM  |  Fashion
Paris Jackson

The Life Ball in Vienna

Perry Ellis. Willi Smith. Gia Carangi. Tina Chow. Franco Moschino. Herb Ritts. Way Brandy. Angel Estrada. Leigh Bowery. Chester Weinberg. Halston.

June 11, 2018 6:00 PM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Over the Hills and Far Away"

FASHION STORY " OVER THE HILLS AND FAR AWAY" is now available!
 
 
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
May 31, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Fashion designer Azzedine Alaia holding his two Yorkshire terriers, Patapouf and Wabo, walking in Paris street with model Frederique who wears one of his creations, a black leather zippered dress, 1986. Courtesy of Arthur Elgort.

"Azzedine Alaia: The Couturier" at the Design Museum

 The Design Museum in London has curated a new design exhibition in honor and exploration of the late designer Azzedine Alaia.

May 21, 2018 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV is back again at Better Days on Broome Street for our monthly "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" Party.

May 16, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Interview: ThreeASFOUR x Epson's cymaSCOPE Capsule

All clothing design involves an amalgamation between form and function and a negotiation between art and commerce.

April 26, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV returned to Better Days on the Lower East Side for our legendary "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" as New York City celebrated the 'medicinal' day of April 20th (4/20).

April 23, 2018 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pier59's Federico Pignatelli Proposes a Model's Bill of Rights

Federico Pignatelli, founder and owner of Pier59 Studios and the Art and Fashion Group Company and Industry Model Management called for a gathering of the fashion industry on Thursday...

April 23, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Ne Va Pas Tranquillement"

FASHION STORY "NE VA PAS TRANQUILLEMENT" is now available!

 

April 16, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Maison Kitsuné X Ader Error Launch Genderless Capsule

Maison Kitsuné’s latest collaboration hit stores on Friday, as the Parisian label teamed up with Korean cult sensation Ader Error for a 15-piece, genderless capsule collection.

April 10, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
Photo: Puyang.

Ricostru: Interview & F/W18 Backstage

In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.

April 10, 2018 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Jill Stuart Fashion Story "Suburbia"

FASHION STORY "SUBURBIA" is now available! 
 
Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.
April 02, 2018 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV returns to Better Days on the Lower East Side for "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" as New York City relishes in the post-Fashion Week calm.

March 20, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Lolita in Zadig & Voltaire"

“Moi je m’appelle Lolita / Lo ou bien Lola, du pareil au même,” sang French pop singer Alizée in her debut single “Moi… Lolita,” which reads, “My name is Lolita / Lo or even Lola, it’s...

March 14, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion
Kitsuné x NBA Tour at Kitsuné Store on Lafayette St. Photo: Ryosuke Miyai.

Maison Kitsuné X NBA Tour Visits New York City

Kitsuné Co-founders Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki continue their exploration of curious collaborations as they partner with the NBA for a first-time capsule collection, and recollection of...

March 13, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Interview: SAGITTAIRE A Debuts in Paris with Fashion Film "Samphrenia"

Sagittaire A is a place deep within the Milky Way that emits radio waves, possibly the location of a black hole, and its perplexing, almost esoteric nature makes it a befitting...

March 09, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion
1 PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

A Breakdown of Moncler Genius: an 8-Capsule Collaboration

New York. London. Milan. Paris.

March 05, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
Lisa Verberght. Photo: Ryosuke Miyai.

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW F/W18 PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV returned to Broome Street to bring New York Fashion Week to a close at "Better Days" where DJ's Keiichiro Nakajima, Kristian Kirk, Oliver Stumm, Grier Newlin, Cat Pace, and Phil Anker took...

February 19, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

MARC JACOBS NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR

For Marc Jacobs Fall-Winter 2018 collection, a foreign kind of drama played out on the runway this season.

February 18, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Adwoa Aboah

R13 NYFW F/W18 BACKSTAGE

R13's conception has been one shrouded in a certain kind of cool mystique.

February 16, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

LINDER NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR SHOW & INTERVIEW

Fall-Winter 2018 marked an amiable separation of the Linder design duo, with Kirk Millar leading the men’s collection and Sam Linder taking control of womenswear.

February 16, 2018 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Jill Stuart NYFW F/W18 Presentation: Video and Backstage

The anticipation and excitement buzzing from the queue that formed outside of an 1840’s brownstone in Gramercy Park could be felt blocks away.

February 13, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Interview: Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang Unite Knitwear and Tech with PH5

To be truly innovative, a designer must be able to control a garment's construction down to each thread.

February 10, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Bella Hadid by Cass Bird

Bella Hadid in Dior's Latest Lip Glow Campaign

By the time you finish reading this sentence, three more tubes of Dior Lip Glow will have been sold around the world.

February 09, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Raf Simons NYFW F/W18 Men's

The Raf Simons collection is undoubtedly the highlight of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and his Fall-Winter 2018 show left an exceptionally decadent impression.

February 09, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine 2018 New Year Party @Better Days

TWELV celebrated the arrival of the New Year at the Lower East Side spot "Better Days" with a late-night dance party spun by DJ's Keiichiro Nakajima, Grier Newlin, Phil Anker, and Cat Pace.

January 29, 2018 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI S/S 2018 CAMPAIGN “UTOPIAN FANTASY”

For Spring/Summer 2018, Gucci commissioned Spanish artist and illustrator Ignasi Monreal to create digital paintings of a mythical universe and utopian fantasy.

January 24, 2018 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

René Caovilla S/S2018 CAMPAIGN

Delicate heels and grainy denim may not make an obvious combination, but stylist Viviana Volpicella uses the classic fabric as a clean backdrop to the scintillating shoes in René Caovilla’s Spring...

January 18, 2018 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU S/S2018 CAMPAIGN “Return to Arcosanti”

January 16, 2018 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

Roberto Cavalli S/S2018 Campaign

The first Spring/Summer Roberto Cavalli campaign developed under the creative direction of former menswear designer, Paul Surridge, proves to be a delivery on his promise to firmly...

January 11, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
Photo: Yurika Morimitsu.

TWELV Magazine "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" Party @BETTER DAYS

To bring in the holidays and to bid farewell to the flocks of New Yorkers fleeing the icy city, TWELV held its illustrious party "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" at the renamed-but-not-forgotten...

December 12, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Helmut Lang NYC Taxi Cab Campaign & Capsule Collection

This year has been a transformative period for Helmut Lang, a brand so inextricably tied with its enigmatic founder who left his label in 2005 and whose influence still manifests in...

December 06, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel BoyFriend Watch Celebration at the #CocoClub

Chanel's latest Instagram-geared affair celebrated their BoyFriend watch collection, a line of angular, masculine watches for women.

November 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
The Cover of "Dresses to Dream About" Photo: Brad Walsh

Christian Siriano's "Dresses to Dream About" Celebrates a Decade of Work

Christian Siriano's decade of empowering women through his epononymous label launched in 2008 is now being celebrated in the designer's first coffee table book entitled Dresses to Dream About...

November 10, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲