LINDER NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR SHOW & INTERVIEW

February 16, 2018 9:00 AM

Fall-Winter 2018 marked an amiable separation of the Linder design duo, with Kirk Millar leading the men’s collection and Sam Linder taking control of womenswear. When asked what he thought of the result, Linder felt it was a pleasant success. “Kirk is being more fully Kirk, and I’m being more fully Sam,” he said backstage, following the conclusion of the women’s New York Fashion Week runway show. 

The collection was shown at the St. Mark’s Church in the East Village, checking off an item from Sam Linder’s bucket list. “I’ve wanted to do a show here since we’ve been doing shows,” he said, and it was clear the venue was not only personal to Linder, but also very familiar. “I’ve been in New York for 25 years, and I’ve been hanging out around here the whole time. I’ve been to a wedding here. I know people that grew up across the street. I just felt like it had to happen.” The sanctuary boasts being the second-oldest church in Manhattan, and Linder’s show adds a small piece of history to it’s storied past.  

Fit for a church, the show conjured something of a pagan ritual. Oversized draping hoods, anatomically stitched white knits, and high-cowl necks created an enchanting fantasy, as a cinematic soundtrack evoked the ambient sounds of a forest. One model partitioned the show into three sections, each time wearing the same black sleeveless dress with a high-cut round neck, grasping a crystal-hemisphere emblazoned clutch. As Sam Linder put it, she served as somewhat of a “sorceress who presided over the whole ceremony.” Separated by the elements, the first grouping consisted of a teal palette with watercolor-esque prints, followed by a selection of woody floral pieces and grey plaids, and the final looks created a darker semblance, with unmistakably fire-inspired prints and a standout, metallic gold coat, trimmed with over a foot of leather fringe from it’s hem.  

Linder’s show notes named Artemis, the lunar virgin goddess, as the “animating spirit” of the collection, and recalls that when the hunter Actaeon met her gaze, he turned into a stag, only before being killed by his own hounds, and so it was only appropriate that leather handbags be suspended by chains from an archer’s bow. But while the Greek mythology served as the inspiration, it was not to shroud Linder’s motivation behind the collection. Beneath the magic and mystique, he designed the collection for the woman who does not heed the male gaze, saying “I just didn’t want to think about women’s clothes in terms of how somebody reacts to a woman. I wanted to think of them in terms of someone who was dressing for another reason– dressing for her own purposes, like what’s she’s going to be doing that day.” The show was mythologic in spirit, but Linder’s starting point for the collection was far from allegorical. 

 

WRITTEN BY HOLLIS DE LANEY

PHOTO CREDIT: COURTESY OF LINDER

 

related posts

Fashion designer Azzedine Alaia holding his two Yorkshire terriers, Patapouf and Wabo, walking in Paris street with model Frederique who wears one of his creations, a black leather zippered dress, 1986. Courtesy of Arthur Elgort.

"Azzedine Alaia: The Couturier" at the Design Museum

 The Design Museum in London has curated a new design exhibition in honor and exploration of the late designer Azzedine Alaia.

May 21, 2018 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV is back again at Better Days on Broome Street for our monthly "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" Party.

May 16, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Interview: ThreeASFOUR x Epson's cymaSCOPE Capsule

All clothing design involves an amalgamation between form and function and a negotiation between art and commerce.

April 26, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV returned to Better Days on the Lower East Side for our legendary "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" as New York City celebrated the 'medicinal' day of April 20th (4/20).

April 23, 2018 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pier59's Federico Pignatelli Proposes a Model's Bill of Rights

Federico Pignatelli, founder and owner of Pier59 Studios and the Art and Fashion Group Company and Industry Model Management called for a gathering of the fashion industry on Thursday...

April 23, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Ne Va Pas Tranquillement"

Prudence and reticence fall far outside her vocabulary. She’s a provocateur, while no less a sophisticate.

April 16, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Maison Kitsuné X Ader Error Launch Genderless Capsule

Maison Kitsuné’s latest collaboration hit stores on Friday, as the Parisian label teamed up with Korean cult sensation Ader Error for a 15-piece, genderless capsule collection.

April 10, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
Photo: Puyang.

Ricostru: Interview & F/W18 Backstage

In Italian, ‘Ricostru’ means ‘reconstruction,’ but designer Rico Manchit Au was constructing an entirely new notion of designer Chinese fashion when she launched her label in 2011.

April 10, 2018 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Jill Stuart Fashion Story "Suburbia"

The sweetness of springtime–- full of youth and naive energy–- is captured frame by frame in Suburbia.

April 02, 2018 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV returns to Better Days on the Lower East Side for "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" as New York City relishes in the post-Fashion Week calm.

March 20, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Fashion Story "Lolita in Zadig & Voltaire"

“Moi je m’appelle Lolita / Lo ou bien Lola, du pareil au même,” sang French pop singer Alizée in her debut single “Moi… Lolita,” which reads, “My name is Lolita / Lo or even Lola, it’s...

March 14, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion
Kitsuné x NBA Tour at Kitsuné Store on Lafayette St. Photo: Ryosuke Miyai.

Maison Kitsuné X NBA Tour Visits New York City

Kitsuné Co-founders Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki continue their exploration of curious collaborations as they partner with the NBA for a first-time capsule collection, and recollection of...

March 13, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Interview: SAGITTAIRE A Debuts in Paris with Fashion Film "Samphrenia"

Sagittaire A is a place deep within the Milky Way that emits radio waves, possibly the location of a black hole, and its perplexing, almost esoteric nature makes it a befitting...

March 09, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion
1 PIERPAOLO PICCIOLI

A Breakdown of Moncler Genius: an 8-Capsule Collaboration

New York. London. Milan. Paris.

March 05, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
Lisa Verberght. Photo: Ryosuke Miyai.

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW F/W18 PARTY @BETTER DAYS

TWELV returned to Broome Street to bring New York Fashion Week to a close at "Better Days" where DJ's Keiichiro Nakajima, Kristian Kirk, Oliver Stumm, Grier Newlin, Cat Pace, and Phil Anker took...

February 19, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

MARC JACOBS NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR

For Marc Jacobs Fall-Winter 2018 collection, a foreign kind of drama played out on the runway this season.

February 18, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Adwoa Aboah

R13 NYFW F/W18 BACKSTAGE

R13's conception has been one shrouded in a certain kind of cool mystique.

February 16, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

LINDER NYFW F/W18 READY-TO-WEAR SHOW & INTERVIEW

Fall-Winter 2018 marked an amiable separation of the Linder design duo, with Kirk Millar leading the men’s collection and Sam Linder taking control of womenswear.

February 16, 2018 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Jill Stuart NYFW F/W18 Presentation: Video and Backstage

The anticipation and excitement buzzing from the queue that formed outside of an 1840’s brownstone in Gramercy Park could be felt blocks away.

February 13, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Interview: Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang Unite Knitwear and Tech with PH5

To be truly innovative, a designer must be able to control a garment's construction down to each thread.

February 10, 2018 11:00 AM  |  Fashion
Bella Hadid by Cass Bird

Bella Hadid in Dior's Latest Lip Glow Campaign

By the time you finish reading this sentence, three more tubes of Dior Lip Glow will have been sold around the world.

February 09, 2018 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Raf Simons NYFW F/W18 Men's

The Raf Simons collection is undoubtedly the highlight of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and his Fall-Winter 2018 show left an exceptionally decadent impression.

February 09, 2018 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine 2018 New Year Party @Better Days

TWELV celebrated the arrival of the New Year at the Lower East Side spot "Better Days" with a late-night dance party spun by DJ's Keiichiro Nakajima, Grier Newlin, Phil Anker, and Cat Pace.

January 29, 2018 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI S/S 2018 CAMPAIGN “UTOPIAN FANTASY”

For Spring/Summer 2018, Gucci commissioned Spanish artist and illustrator Ignasi Monreal to create digital paintings of a mythical universe and utopian fantasy.

January 24, 2018 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

René Caovilla S/S2018 CAMPAIGN

Delicate heels and grainy denim may not make an obvious combination, but stylist Viviana Volpicella uses the classic fabric as a clean backdrop to the scintillating shoes in René Caovilla’s Spring...

January 18, 2018 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU S/S2018 CAMPAIGN “Return to Arcosanti”

January 16, 2018 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

Roberto Cavalli S/S2018 Campaign

The first Spring/Summer Roberto Cavalli campaign developed under the creative direction of former menswear designer, Paul Surridge, proves to be a delivery on his promise to firmly...

January 11, 2018 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
Photo: Yurika Morimitsu.

TWELV Magazine "Blonde Sashimi from Planet TWELV" Party @BETTER DAYS

To bring in the holidays and to bid farewell to the flocks of New Yorkers fleeing the icy city, TWELV held its illustrious party "BLONDE SASHIMI FROM PLANET TWELV" at the renamed-but-not-forgotten...

December 12, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Helmut Lang NYC Taxi Cab Campaign & Capsule Collection

This year has been a transformative period for Helmut Lang, a brand so inextricably tied with its enigmatic founder who left his label in 2005 and whose influence still manifests in...

December 06, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel BoyFriend Watch Celebration at the #CocoClub

Chanel's latest Instagram-geared affair celebrated their BoyFriend watch collection, a line of angular, masculine watches for women.

November 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
The Cover of "Dresses to Dream About" Photo: Brad Walsh

Christian Siriano's "Dresses to Dream About" Celebrates a Decade of Work

Christian Siriano's decade of empowering women through his epononymous label launched in 2008 is now being celebrated in the designer's first coffee table book entitled Dresses to Dream About...

November 10, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion
Video still from "STEFFI"

Roberto Cavalli X TWELV Fashion Video "Steffi"

TWELV Roberto Cavalli Video Story "STEFFI"

November 08, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV Magazine Halloween 2017 Party @Better Days

TWELV Magazine's annual Halloween party was on the cutting edge of horror haute couture with costumed guests attending as their alter egos for the night.

October 30, 2017 6:00 PM  |  Fashion
Tetra Neomatik 39

Nomos Glashütte Debuts "At Work" Collection

Luxury German watchmaker Nomos Glashütte has been in the market for 25 years now, but it didn’t take...

October 30, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
Video Still from "The Gate"

Björk Wears a Custom Gucci Masterpiece in "The Gate"

The genius of Björk, if we can condense it, is her ability to enable the human voice to express in sound what cannot be put into words.

October 12, 2017 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲