"My Fair Lady" S/S2013 Paris Couture Week Highlights

February 06, 2013 11:12 AM

With fast-fashion retailers mimicking designers’ collections weeks after they’re shown on the runway, and the intense pressure put on designers to now deliver a minimum of four collections a year, the fashion merry-go-round is spinning quite rapidly these days.  This makes it quite difficult to remember how the art and craftsmanship of clothing and the subsequent cultural notions of fashion began.  Take a step back and think.  Long before ingenious technological advances and our growing individualistic and perspectival culture, there was just custom-made, hand-sewn clothing.

Yes, now we have ready-to-wear fashion shows that preview the newest, latest, trends and styles, but Haute Couture still has it’s own unique beckoning light. Whereas ready-to-wear designers literally see their wares trickled down through boutiques and department stores, Haute Couture is fashion’s own Art Basel persay; a showcase honoring the art and craft behind the fashion, utilizing traditions of yore while also capitalizing on technology only accessible in the historical moment of “now.” This season in Paris, Couture and Haute Couture impressed on us the history behind fashion as we see it today. 

For Maison Martin Marigela and Alexis Mabille (Snapple fact: they are official members of Haute Couture), they are rising stars in the world of Haute Couture which has been dominated by names we’ve known for half a century or more: Chanel, Dior, & Valentino. Margiela’s collection seemed focused on an Eastern inspired interpretation of Alice in Wonderland, with shapes reminiscent of the Mad Hatters mind in dress-up mode.  Feathers were the key embellishment, intricately incorporated by hand into looks with lace and labors of love. Maison Martin Marigela, on the complete opposite side of fashion, is known for its individualistic recycling concept. We shall call this collection hobo chic. Our take from this line is all about balance, the perfect medium of stoicism and cynicism. Oversized coats, (a house trope and always a big hit) flowing forms, it is embodiment of the Parisian woman's way of not trying to hard:  a complete effect of throwing on whatever you can in a hurry combined with chic conceptual “consciousness”. Alexis Mabille had a different interpretation of the sophisticated: you’d think Marie Antoinette spent her entire fortune on this line alone. Pink is the new pleasure, and his collection makes you feel like a wanton material girl. The only adverb appropriate for this collection: Royalty.  Sultriness sprinkled with sin, his collection captured the inner look of any princess. Lace frills and rich strong forms of sweetness --he consistently showcased a new form of Couture. Black tie eveningwear anyone? These habiliments are statement pieces meant for the red carpet and regal banquets.

One the other hand (no pun intended, as these collections are solely made by them) Iris Van Herpen, Yiqing Yin, and Rad Hourani  (as invited guests to Paris couture week by la chambre syndicale de la haute couture, their couture collections can not lead with the modifier “haute”) had different concepts in mind. Iris Van Herpen focused on one thing, stepping outside the box –she is the couturier associated with some of Lady Gaga’s and Daphne Guiness’s most noteworthy and publicly polarizing get-ups.  Van Herpen’s collection built itself like the evolution of an exotic plant. Starting from the roots and growing into a blossoming figure, every woman’s inner goddess is bleeding from development into female independence, as was seen with the intensity and grandeur she built upon with each model’s entrance. Sporting spikes, rivets and cutouts, she shocked us like the Electric feel.

Yiqing Yin had a unique collection as well. It seems that death preoccupied her latest outing, but she used a defibrillator to bring her clothes back to life. Multiple looks in smoky greys, jet blacks, and silver focused on one goal, delivering Yin’s eery message: Are you afraid of the dark? Her play on textures (Sherpa, Pony Hair and tassels) left her clothes alive in the eternal world of the cerebral. One’s cultural references could say Yin's recent outing was definitely Tim Burton inspired.  But this was no nightmare; it was an awakening!

Lastly Rad Hourani popped on our radar because we adore his concept of unisex couture dressing.  Using only a monochromatic color scheme of black and white, Cruella Deville would have loved to skin these models. Hourani’s slim cigarette trousers, fitted jackets, and cropped blouses were simple and understated but felt quite refreshing, especially on the few men we saw on all the couture catwalks. Sometimes, less is more.  Congratulations Rad Hourani, this more is exactly what we need!

At the end of the day fashion is who you are, and how you own it, both Couture and Haute Couture no less. You could say that couture clothes give their wearer a higher edge of empowerment due to their delicately intricate and personalized construction.  These couture designers don’t just make “fashion;" they make historical commodities: timeless cultural artifacts. 

 

 

WRITTEN BY: MADISON POPPER 

 

 

related posts

NEW FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN: MY BURBERRY

NEW FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN: MY BURBERRY 

 

The new MY BURBERRY ad sincerely encapsulate the fragrance. 

 

September 24, 2014 5:43 PM  |  Fashion

Christian Siriano FALL/WINTER 2014 editorial lookbook

Seemingly, Fall decided to make an appearance early in New York City this year.  CHRISTIAN SIRIANO has revealed its new designs of luxurious dresses for Fall.

September 18, 2014 8:59 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVALLI FASHION STORY "BREAK ON THROUGH"

Exclusive Fashion Story "BREAK ON THROUGH" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

September 18, 2014 2:26 PM  |  Fashion

CALVIN KLEIN NYFW S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

New York Fashion Week S/S 2015 just passed, CALVIN KLEIN amazed our eyes by their new minimalism collection.

September 17, 2014 6:02 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti Opens Its Sixth U.S. Store

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Design has once again set up shop on American soil.

September 16, 2014 4:35 PM  |  Fashion
Photograph by JOHAN TREVINO

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW'14 PARTY @GILDED LILY

TWELV MAGAZING FASHION WEEK SS15 PARTY

 

September 15, 2014 8:12 PM  |  Fashion

David Beckham Celebrates The Launch Of “Off Road”

Biking enthusiast DAVID BECKHAM will join the global launch of “OFF ROAD” with the world famous photographer PETER LINDBERGH on Wednesday, September 10th, 2014, which will be held at a British...

September 14, 2014 7:50 PM  |  Fashion

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The history of VAN CLEEF & ARPELS began with a love story in 1895, ESTELLE ARPELS, the daughter of a precious stone merchant, got married with ALFRED VAN CLEEF, the son of a lapidary...

September 14, 2014 7:30 PM  |  Fashion

PRADA FALL/WINTER 2014 CAMPAIGN

With a selection of bold colors and textiles, the fall/winter 2014 womenswear campaign for Prada tiptoes the line between mystery and immodesty.

September 09, 2014 7:45 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON 2014FW CAMPAIGN HOUSE OF ADVENTURE: “SERIES 1”

NICOLAS GHESQUIERE’s first campaign as the creative director for LOUIS VUITTON’s women’s line, “SERIES 1,” has made its debut in many forms.

September 04, 2014 5:40 PM  |  Fashion

RALPH LAUREN MIDNIGHT ROMANCE FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN

Delicious, elegant, gently sweet, and somehow mysterious; RALPH LAUREN brings to an extraordinary romantic love with a beautiful woman with natural beauty inside.

September 02, 2014 9:08 PM  |  Fashion

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID

Art is essentially healing our spirit, soul and body; TOM FORD succeeds expressing an art of human body and the right resonance for their new Black Orchis fragrance campaign.  

August 25, 2014 6:02 PM  |  Fashion

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGNS A SNEAKER INSPIRED

Italian designer GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI creates a futuristic sneaker inspired by KID CUDI’s great artistry, energy and vibes for the Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

August 21, 2014 3:21 PM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #3: HOGAN MASK

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

August 21, 2014 11:05 AM  |  Fashion

CHARLES WARREN FASHION STORY "WILD THING CHARLES WARREN"

Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "WILD THING CHARLES WARREN" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 21, 2014 8:12 AM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN NAIL POLISH

ET VOILA! The signature red sole was born.

August 20, 2014 5:59 PM  |  Fashion

DIOR HOMME X TWELV MAGAZINE EDITORIAL VIDEO - NOSTALGIA

Exclusive Dior Homme Editorial Video, "NOSTALGIA" is now avaialble!

Check inside for TWELV's Editorial Video

 

August 18, 2014 9:46 PM  |  Fashion

Dior VIII MONTAIGNE & Dior VIII GRAND BAL WATCH COLLECTIONS

Dior VIII Montaigne and Dior VIII Grand Bal Watch Collections

August 18, 2014 3:26 PM  |  Fashion

JILL STUART FASHION STORY "JESS"

Exclusive Jill Stuart Fashion Story "JESS" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 15, 2014 10:59 AM  |  Fashion
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANI BERBERIAN

DALILA PASOTTI JEWELRY

A silvery metallic piece fills just enough to delegate a simple look; a unique thorny feature is a coniferous neutral that works well regardless of the season.

August 13, 2014 2:16 PM  |  Fashion

MORGAN SAYLOR EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW/FASHION STORY

Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "MORGAN SAYLOR" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 01, 2014 6:56 PM  |  Fashion

ADOPTED X TWELV PARTY

Last Friday, ADOPTED and TWELV Magazine partnered up to host an exciting party at the ADOPTED headquarters in Soho.

July 30, 2014 3:25 PM  |  Fashion

Fendi Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign backstage shots

For FENDI’s fall/winter 2014 campaign, KARL LAGERFELD stepped behind the cameras to shoot the ad.

July 30, 2014 8:08 AM  |  Fashion

Lanvin 2014 Autumn Winter Campaign

We have never seen a more fashionable family portrait until the LAVIN 2014 Autumn/ Winter campaign. In the ad, TIM WALKER photographs model EDIE CAMPBELL with her entire.

July 28, 2014 3:51 PM  |  Fashion

DIOR HOMME FASHION STORY "DON'T CRY"

Exclusive Fashion Story "DON'T CRY" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

July 28, 2014 1:21 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel Fall-Winter 2014/15 pre-collection Film Private View

When it comes to presentation, KARL LAGERFELD is definitely an expert.

July 22, 2014 10:47 AM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti 20th Anniversary in Marina Ibiza Port

There’s no better place to party than Ibiza so it comes as no surprise that GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI celebrated his 20 years of his creative work in the stunning location.

July 21, 2014 3:40 PM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #2: Hello Bruna

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

July 17, 2014 12:10 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti Design FW14-15 AD CAMPAIGN

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN’s FW14-15 campaign is the definition of effortless chic.

July 17, 2014 6:37 AM  |  Fashion

VALENTINO F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

 This Haute Couture season seemed to be the occasion for referencing the past.

July 15, 2014 2:46 PM  |  Fashion

Gisele Bündchen escorted the Louis Vuitton trophy case for the final of the FIFA World Cup

Since 1854, LOUIS VUITTON has been internationally renowned for its unique, innovative styles that are of the highest quality.

July 15, 2014 7:31 AM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

On Tuesday July 8th, for the presentation of the CHANEL FALL 2014 Haute Couture collection, KARL LAGERFELD, turned the GRAND PALAIS into a huge terrace evoking the décor of a Parisian apartment....

July 11, 2014 6:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIMMY CHOO AUTUMN WINTER 2014 COLLECTION

The Jimmy Choo Autumn Winter 2014 Collection was recently released, showcased in their most recent advertising campaign. The campaign’s video, starring British model Kit Harington.

July 11, 2014 5:49 PM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN DIOR F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

RAF SIMONS travelled back in time to bring us modern clothes at the CHRISTIAN DIOR 2014 COUTURE show on July 7.

July 10, 2014 4:29 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVALLI AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-2015 ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Just Like Marilyn

July 10, 2014 4:03 PM  |  Fashion

ATELIER VERSACE F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

Buckles, chokers, and corsets are a few of the details that amplified the 31 looks shown in the ATELIER VERSACE FALL 2014 COUTURE show on July 6in Paris, France.  This season, DONATELLA VERSACE...

July 09, 2014 6:35 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲