"My Fair Lady" S/S2013 Paris Couture Week Highlights

February 06, 2013 11:12 AM

With fast-fashion retailers mimicking designers’ collections weeks after they’re shown on the runway, and the intense pressure put on designers to now deliver a minimum of four collections a year, the fashion merry-go-round is spinning quite rapidly these days.  This makes it quite difficult to remember how the art and craftsmanship of clothing and the subsequent cultural notions of fashion began.  Take a step back and think.  Long before ingenious technological advances and our growing individualistic and perspectival culture, there was just custom-made, hand-sewn clothing.

Yes, now we have ready-to-wear fashion shows that preview the newest, latest, trends and styles, but Haute Couture still has it’s own unique beckoning light. Whereas ready-to-wear designers literally see their wares trickled down through boutiques and department stores, Haute Couture is fashion’s own Art Basel persay; a showcase honoring the art and craft behind the fashion, utilizing traditions of yore while also capitalizing on technology only accessible in the historical moment of “now.” This season in Paris, Couture and Haute Couture impressed on us the history behind fashion as we see it today. 

For Maison Martin Marigela and Alexis Mabille (Snapple fact: they are official members of Haute Couture), they are rising stars in the world of Haute Couture which has been dominated by names we’ve known for half a century or more: Chanel, Dior, & Valentino. Margiela’s collection seemed focused on an Eastern inspired interpretation of Alice in Wonderland, with shapes reminiscent of the Mad Hatters mind in dress-up mode.  Feathers were the key embellishment, intricately incorporated by hand into looks with lace and labors of love. Maison Martin Marigela, on the complete opposite side of fashion, is known for its individualistic recycling concept. We shall call this collection hobo chic. Our take from this line is all about balance, the perfect medium of stoicism and cynicism. Oversized coats, (a house trope and always a big hit) flowing forms, it is embodiment of the Parisian woman's way of not trying to hard:  a complete effect of throwing on whatever you can in a hurry combined with chic conceptual “consciousness”. Alexis Mabille had a different interpretation of the sophisticated: you’d think Marie Antoinette spent her entire fortune on this line alone. Pink is the new pleasure, and his collection makes you feel like a wanton material girl. The only adverb appropriate for this collection: Royalty.  Sultriness sprinkled with sin, his collection captured the inner look of any princess. Lace frills and rich strong forms of sweetness --he consistently showcased a new form of Couture. Black tie eveningwear anyone? These habiliments are statement pieces meant for the red carpet and regal banquets.

One the other hand (no pun intended, as these collections are solely made by them) Iris Van Herpen, Yiqing Yin, and Rad Hourani  (as invited guests to Paris couture week by la chambre syndicale de la haute couture, their couture collections can not lead with the modifier “haute”) had different concepts in mind. Iris Van Herpen focused on one thing, stepping outside the box –she is the couturier associated with some of Lady Gaga’s and Daphne Guiness’s most noteworthy and publicly polarizing get-ups.  Van Herpen’s collection built itself like the evolution of an exotic plant. Starting from the roots and growing into a blossoming figure, every woman’s inner goddess is bleeding from development into female independence, as was seen with the intensity and grandeur she built upon with each model’s entrance. Sporting spikes, rivets and cutouts, she shocked us like the Electric feel.

Yiqing Yin had a unique collection as well. It seems that death preoccupied her latest outing, but she used a defibrillator to bring her clothes back to life. Multiple looks in smoky greys, jet blacks, and silver focused on one goal, delivering Yin’s eery message: Are you afraid of the dark? Her play on textures (Sherpa, Pony Hair and tassels) left her clothes alive in the eternal world of the cerebral. One’s cultural references could say Yin's recent outing was definitely Tim Burton inspired.  But this was no nightmare; it was an awakening!

Lastly Rad Hourani popped on our radar because we adore his concept of unisex couture dressing.  Using only a monochromatic color scheme of black and white, Cruella Deville would have loved to skin these models. Hourani’s slim cigarette trousers, fitted jackets, and cropped blouses were simple and understated but felt quite refreshing, especially on the few men we saw on all the couture catwalks. Sometimes, less is more.  Congratulations Rad Hourani, this more is exactly what we need!

At the end of the day fashion is who you are, and how you own it, both Couture and Haute Couture no less. You could say that couture clothes give their wearer a higher edge of empowerment due to their delicately intricate and personalized construction.  These couture designers don’t just make “fashion;" they make historical commodities: timeless cultural artifacts. 

 

 

WRITTEN BY: MADISON POPPER 

 

 

related posts

Louis Vuitton x Jeff Koons: The Power of Icons

An L and a V. The combination of these two letters has become one of the most widely recognized trademarks in the world, let alone the fashion world.

May 30, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

“Who is Gabrielle?” #GabrielleChanel

Everyone knows Chanel 2.55, the bag famously created by Gabrielle Chanel in February 1955 and named after the month and year of its birth.

May 01, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIL SANDER × NENDO OBJECTEXITILE CAPSULE COLLECTION

Fashion meets design in the conceptual Nendo x Jil Sander Capsule Collection debuting during Milan Design Week.

April 26, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DKNY FASHION STORY "VASILISA IN DKNY"

FASHION STORY “VASILISA IN DKNY" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

April 24, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Tiffany & Co. New HardWear Collection with Lady Gaga

Last year, TWELV introduced the new Tiffany & Co. “Legendary Style” series.  The campaign series began in Fall 2016, and featured Oscar-winning actress Lupita Nyong’o and actress Elle Fanning...

April 21, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "CLAIRE DE REGGE"

Interview / Fashion Story

"CLAIRE DE REGGE" is now available!

Check inside for the full page of editorial

April 20, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

KISSES FROM JILL STUART NYFW F/W2017 BACKSTAGE

The runway is a facade for designers to stage their vision, the strictly choreographed back-and-forth of models shinning a never-ending flow of clothes.

April 17, 2017 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "CORY ROBERTS"

FASHION STORY “CORY ROBERTS" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

April 13, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Contemporary Luxury Welcomes #TFWGucci

The swaths of newfound Gucci aficionados are certain to be charmed by the fashion house’s latest collaborative campaign, #TFWGucci (“That Feel When” or “That Feeling When”), a meme-based, creative...

April 12, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY “MY OWN STORY"

FASHION STORY “MY OWN STORY" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 28, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "PLAY DEAD"

FASHION STORY "PLAY DEAD" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 22, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHANEL PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Karl Lagerfeld has done it once again with an impressive “launch” of Chanel’s Fall-Winter 2017 ready-to-wear collection.

March 15, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "PLASTIC WOMAN"

FASHION STORY "PLASTIC WOMAN" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 14, 2017 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

On the final day of Paris Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada swept fashion connoisseurs into a teenage dream at the Miu Miu Fall-Winter 2017 ready-to-wear show.  For the designer’s more spontaneous...

March 14, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "DEN DANSKE PIGE"

FASHION STORY "DEN DANSKE PIGE" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

March 13, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Before witnessing the rhythmic succession of models down the catwalk, the audience experiences an atmosphere created by a ballet of sounds and lights dancing...

March 13, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

PRADA F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

We live in a highly politicized climate, and the fashion world is no exception.

March 10, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENT PFW F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The insurmountable responsibility of designing a collection for Saint Laurent goes without saying.

March 07, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIL SANDER NAVY FASHION STORY "MIRROR MIRROR"

JIL SANDER NAVY Fashion Story "MIRROR MIRROR" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

March 03, 2017 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI F/W2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Kicking off Milan fashion week, Gucci introduced its Fall-Winter 2017 ready-to-wear collection in “The Alchemist’s Garden: an anti-modern laboratory.” Septum piercings, shining...

March 02, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Kiesza Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KIESZA"

Kiesza Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KIESZA" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

February 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion
Sita Abellan

TWELV MAGAZINE X NYCULT NYFW FW2017 PARTY @THE BOWERY HOTEL

Find and enjoy more photos on BFA and ...

February 13, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Miu Miu S/S2017 COLLECTION “Suddenly Next Summer”

Imagine yourself wearing whimsical patterns on a warm sunny day on the sandy coast of California.

February 06, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti S/S2017 Collection “Raw Beauty”

The latest Giuseppe Zanotti advertising campaign was captured by Mario Sorrenti, and Spring-Summer 2017 “Raw Beauty” certainly does not...

February 01, 2017 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NEW YEAR PARTY @HAPPY ENDING

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

January 20, 2017 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Dior Lady Art

"I have always been interested in getting my work out into the world," said artist Chris Martin in a promotional video shot for his collaboration with Dior, entitled "Dior...

January 11, 2017 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Fashion story "The Golden Child "

FASHION STORY "THE GOLDEN CHILD" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

January 04, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel 2017 Métiers d’Art Collection

Karl Lagerfeld introduces Chanel’s beautiful Pre-Spring collection at the luxurious Ritz Paris.

December 09, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "HAPPY ENDING"

FASHION STORY "HAPPY ENDING" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

December 01, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Viktor & Rolf Exhibition Opens in Australia

From October 21, 2016, to February 26, 2017, the Dutch design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are hosting their fourth solo exhibition, Viktor & Rolf: Fashion...

November 30, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

BEAUTY STORY "LA STRADA"

BEAUTY STORY “La Strada" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 28, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

ICB FASHION STORY "ICB"

FASHION STORY “ICB" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 21, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Miu Miu "SUNSET TO SUNRISE" Croisere2017 CAMPAIGN

Miu Miu has just released the Croisiere 2017 Campaign for their new collection, captured by fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan.

November 17, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DKNY FASHION STORY "DAZED KIDS NEW YORK"

 

FASHION STORY “Dazed Kids New York" is now available!

 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 08, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE HALLOWEEN PARTY "DEATH ON THE DANCEFLOOR" @HAPPY ENDING

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

November 07, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA x BARBIE

British luxury shoe and accessory designer, Charlotte Olympia, is having her childhood dream come true.

November 07, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲