"My Fair Lady" S/S2013 Paris Couture Week Highlights

February 06, 2013 11:12 AM

With fast-fashion retailers mimicking designers’ collections weeks after they’re shown on the runway, and the intense pressure put on designers to now deliver a minimum of four collections a year, the fashion merry-go-round is spinning quite rapidly these days.  This makes it quite difficult to remember how the art and craftsmanship of clothing and the subsequent cultural notions of fashion began.  Take a step back and think.  Long before ingenious technological advances and our growing individualistic and perspectival culture, there was just custom-made, hand-sewn clothing.

Yes, now we have ready-to-wear fashion shows that preview the newest, latest, trends and styles, but Haute Couture still has it’s own unique beckoning light. Whereas ready-to-wear designers literally see their wares trickled down through boutiques and department stores, Haute Couture is fashion’s own Art Basel persay; a showcase honoring the art and craft behind the fashion, utilizing traditions of yore while also capitalizing on technology only accessible in the historical moment of “now.” This season in Paris, Couture and Haute Couture impressed on us the history behind fashion as we see it today. 

For Maison Martin Marigela and Alexis Mabille (Snapple fact: they are official members of Haute Couture), they are rising stars in the world of Haute Couture which has been dominated by names we’ve known for half a century or more: Chanel, Dior, & Valentino. Margiela’s collection seemed focused on an Eastern inspired interpretation of Alice in Wonderland, with shapes reminiscent of the Mad Hatters mind in dress-up mode.  Feathers were the key embellishment, intricately incorporated by hand into looks with lace and labors of love. Maison Martin Marigela, on the complete opposite side of fashion, is known for its individualistic recycling concept. We shall call this collection hobo chic. Our take from this line is all about balance, the perfect medium of stoicism and cynicism. Oversized coats, (a house trope and always a big hit) flowing forms, it is embodiment of the Parisian woman's way of not trying to hard:  a complete effect of throwing on whatever you can in a hurry combined with chic conceptual “consciousness”. Alexis Mabille had a different interpretation of the sophisticated: you’d think Marie Antoinette spent her entire fortune on this line alone. Pink is the new pleasure, and his collection makes you feel like a wanton material girl. The only adverb appropriate for this collection: Royalty.  Sultriness sprinkled with sin, his collection captured the inner look of any princess. Lace frills and rich strong forms of sweetness --he consistently showcased a new form of Couture. Black tie eveningwear anyone? These habiliments are statement pieces meant for the red carpet and regal banquets.

One the other hand (no pun intended, as these collections are solely made by them) Iris Van Herpen, Yiqing Yin, and Rad Hourani  (as invited guests to Paris couture week by la chambre syndicale de la haute couture, their couture collections can not lead with the modifier “haute”) had different concepts in mind. Iris Van Herpen focused on one thing, stepping outside the box –she is the couturier associated with some of Lady Gaga’s and Daphne Guiness’s most noteworthy and publicly polarizing get-ups.  Van Herpen’s collection built itself like the evolution of an exotic plant. Starting from the roots and growing into a blossoming figure, every woman’s inner goddess is bleeding from development into female independence, as was seen with the intensity and grandeur she built upon with each model’s entrance. Sporting spikes, rivets and cutouts, she shocked us like the Electric feel.

Yiqing Yin had a unique collection as well. It seems that death preoccupied her latest outing, but she used a defibrillator to bring her clothes back to life. Multiple looks in smoky greys, jet blacks, and silver focused on one goal, delivering Yin’s eery message: Are you afraid of the dark? Her play on textures (Sherpa, Pony Hair and tassels) left her clothes alive in the eternal world of the cerebral. One’s cultural references could say Yin's recent outing was definitely Tim Burton inspired.  But this was no nightmare; it was an awakening!

Lastly Rad Hourani popped on our radar because we adore his concept of unisex couture dressing.  Using only a monochromatic color scheme of black and white, Cruella Deville would have loved to skin these models. Hourani’s slim cigarette trousers, fitted jackets, and cropped blouses were simple and understated but felt quite refreshing, especially on the few men we saw on all the couture catwalks. Sometimes, less is more.  Congratulations Rad Hourani, this more is exactly what we need!

At the end of the day fashion is who you are, and how you own it, both Couture and Haute Couture no less. You could say that couture clothes give their wearer a higher edge of empowerment due to their delicately intricate and personalized construction.  These couture designers don’t just make “fashion;" they make historical commodities: timeless cultural artifacts. 

 

 

WRITTEN BY: MADISON POPPER 

 

 

related posts

Fashion story "The Golden Child "

FASHION STORY "THE GOLDEN CHILD" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

January 04, 2017 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel 2017 Métiers d’Art Collection

Karl Lagerfeld introduces Chanel’s beautiful Pre-Spring collection at the luxurious Ritz Paris.

December 09, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "HAPPY ENDING"

FASHION STORY "HAPPY ENDING" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

December 01, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Viktor & Rolf Exhibition Opens in Australia

From October 21, 2016, to February 26, 2017, the Dutch design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are hosting their fourth solo exhibition, Viktor & Rolf: Fashion...

November 30, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

BEAUTY STORY "LA STRADA"

BEAUTY STORY “La Strada" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 28, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

ICB FASHION STORY "ICB"

FASHION STORY “ICB" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 21, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Miu Miu "SUNSET TO SUNRISE" Croisere2017 CAMPAIGN

Miu Miu has just released the Croisiere 2017 Campaign for their new collection, captured by fashion photographer Alasdair McLellan.

November 17, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DKNY FASHION STORY "DAZED KIDS NEW YORK"

 

FASHION STORY “Dazed Kids New York" is now available!

 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 08, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE HALLOWEEN PARTY "DEATH ON THE DANCEFLOOR" @HAPPY ENDING

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

November 07, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA x BARBIE

British luxury shoe and accessory designer, Charlotte Olympia, is having her childhood dream come true.

November 07, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "MAO"

FASHION STORY “MAO" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

November 04, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Hermès - La Fabrique de la Soie

« Hermès »… One of the first things that come to mind when hearing this name is the brand's worldwide famous carré.

November 03, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

VIKTOR & ROLF FIRST MARIAGE COLLECTION WITH JUSTIN ALEXANDER

Nothing is more attention grabbing than pure ingenuity, especially when it is expressed and executed properly.

October 31, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

MOSCHINO S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

MOSCHINO: LET'S PLAY PAPER DOLL DRESS UP! 

60+ Charming Cut-Outs for 34 Dolls

 

October 17, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

FASHION STORY "ESTEE"

FASHION STORY “ESTEE" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

October 17, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

MIU MIU PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

 

October 14, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

For the first time, the Louis Vuitton fashion show on October 5 took place in the future home of the brand’s store, located exclusively at Paris.

October 12, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

LANVIN PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Lanvin Spring-Summer 2017 runway presentation marks Bouchra Jarrar’s first show and second collection for the French fashion house, as well as reminds us that her eponymous label has now had...

October 01, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

SAINT LAURENTS PFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Spring-Summer 2017 Saint Laurent collection was certainly a finger-tapping moment of anticipation for the French luxury house, as well as for the devoted Saint Laurent following that has been...

September 30, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHROME HEARTS FOR THE WEEKEND'S ‘STARBOY’ COVER

After the release of THE WEEKND’s Beauty Behind the Madness, fans are impatiently awaiting his next big move.

September 29, 2016 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

DSQUARED2 FASHION STORY "DSQUARED2"

FASHION STORY “DSQUARED2" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 28, 2016 5:49 PM  |  Fashion

Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2017 ready-to-wear

At Marc Jacobs, the hemlines keep rising and so do the platforms.

September 27, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

YIGAL AZROUËL NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

Layers. Embroideries. Details.

September 26, 2016 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW PARTY @M1-5LOUNGE

Find and enjoy more photos on TWELV Facebook

 

September 22, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

HELMUT LANG FASHION STORY "MY SIDE OF THE STREET"

FASHION STORY “MY SIDE OF THE STREET” is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

September 18, 2016 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Erin Fetherston NYFW S/S2017 READY-TO-WEAR

The Spring-Summer 2017 collection was a markedly important season for Erin Fetherston, serving not only as her 10th Anniversary New York Fashion Week, but also as her first...

September 16, 2016 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

KENZO WORLD THE NEW FRAGRANCE VIDEO by Spike Jonze

Formed by Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, KENZO Parfums unveils Kenzo World – the first feminine fragrance that “alludes to the force of the third eye and to spiritual protection...

September 15, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO NYFW S/S2017 Ready-to-Wear

An appraisal of the designs from Christian Siriano’s spring 2017 show would deem his work otherworldly.

September 12, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Louis Vuitton Unveils New Fragrance Collection "Les Parfums"

The roles we assume each day, whether it’s being a powerful attorney, a fashion editor, or homemaker are all accompanied by their own specifics.

September 01, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion
GUCCI

EYEGASM WORTHY GLASSES TO ACCESSORIZE YOUR B*TCH FACE

UNIQUE SILHOUETTE SUNGLASSES

 

 

August 24, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

Lodovico Zordanazzo STORY

Lodovico Zordanazzo is an Italian man with a London soul. Italy is where he was born but London is where he gave birth to his own namesake line of footwear.

August 18, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

TIFFANY & CO. F/W2016 CAMPAIGN WITH Lupita Nyong'o and Elle Fanning

Tiffany & Co. unveiled its new fall 2016 campaign a few days ago, and for the first time in the brand history it features famous faces : Oscar®-winning actress...

August 18, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

GUCCI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN

Bubbles popping. Bells ringing. Buses honking. Alessandro Michele has done it again with Gucci’s autumn/winter 2016 campaign.

August 15, 2016 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM"

DJ BEC ADAMS FASHION STORY "NO LAPTOP NO PROBLEM" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial.

August 12, 2016 2:51 PM  |  Fashion

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2016 CAMPAIGN

What do indie bands, crystal sandals, and Grace Hartzel have in common? Well, they are all featured in Giuseppe Zanotti’s latest dazzling ad campaign. 

August 08, 2016 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2016 eyewear X Willow Smith

After being crowned a Chanel ambassador and electrifying the steps of the Met Gala in a car coat and clamdiggers this year, the ever creative and always fierce, Willow Smith,...

August 05, 2016 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲