Interview: SAGITTAIRE A Debuts in Paris with Fashion Film "Samphrenia"

March 09, 2018 12:00 PM

Sagittaire A is a place deep within the Milky Way that emits radio waves, possibly the location of a black hole, and its perplexing, almost esoteric nature makes it a befitting name for the logo-less brand that debuted Paris Fashion Week this year with a short fashion film– the designers to remain unnamed. The brand’s team is “based in China, rooted in France,” and hail from non-fashion backgrounds, according to Sagittaire A’s Paris spokesperson Rafael Jimenez. The brand’s website is soon to launch, and on Instagram, their logo appears to simply be in Times New Roman all-caps, as if undecided. Instead of the garments bearing any brand emblem, familiar logos like that of Marlboro and Mastercard were adapted for the clothes. These decisions are rooted in the attitude that consumers won’t remember a brand’s logo at such an early stage in its lifecycle. “So why have a logo?” remarked Jimenez. The brand proffers unfamiliar standards such as this after a long-term observance and meditation on the fashion industry from the outside. 

“Samphrenia,” the brand’s fashion short was released in lieu of a traditional fashion show, and was based off of the Oscar-winning Milos Forman film One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, starring Jack Nicholson. The film plays almost like a cinematic recording of a fashion show with the seats placed in the set, a mental institute, left completely vacant. Models were fitted with thick, creased leather boots with exposed zippers climbing the heel. They walked through the film with an unconcerned demeanor, slightly disheveled but at ease, sometimes smoking a cigarette or eating an apple. The collection’s boxy blazers and coats feature contrast stitching, asymmetric and distressed details, and deconstructed elements– vestigial third-sleeves fall down the coat backs of some looks– most reminiscent of Margiela, as are the white-gowned “patients” displayed going about their day in the institute. 

Only second to the product, the artistry behind each step in the design and production process is the essence of Sagittaire A. They hope to establish the brand without allowing marketing efforts or branding to distract from the fashion nor the artistry behind it. TWELV spoke with Jimenez to discuss the mystique; the independent, artisanal nature; and the curious story behind Sagittaire A’s carefully considered inception.

Watch "Samphrenia" and read the excerpts below:

The brand is described as being the result of a “long-term reflection on the fashion industry.” Can you tell me more?

The founders have been observing with a lot of curiosity how the fashion industry works, and how the system works– notions about quality, seasons, distribution, gender, status. They know from an insider, from the fashion circles of production, of high-end luxury labels. The founders are young people between ages 30-33 and self-trained in fashion. One studied business, one studied law, but they had been watching how collections were shown, and discounted immediately, and how the value of the artwork and the intellectual property were thought about.

They are obviously very influenced Margiela and by the Japanese movement, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons. They are in the school of philosophy of the people who like to put the spotlight on the product, on the creative side, and on the artistic side, as opposed to the more marketing-driven side.

The team seems to have a sense of secrecy.

For the moment, they would like to be considered as a collective that is based in China, rooted in France, who exchange information with different like-minded people in the world. They don’t like to put the focus on who is behind it, just that the artistry that is behind all the processes of creation is real, and is made for the brand, by the brand. 

 Is there a story behind the name?

Some of the members believe in a sort of mysticism and were really attracted by the idea of Sagittaire A, which is a place in the cosmos where certain radio waves are born, and it is believed that there are theories with the origin of the universe. 

 What was the starting point for the first collection?

The team does have a head of design. He’s a self-trained person. He’s a real library rat. He reads all the books. He only works at night. He hardly sees anyone. He has been investigating what would be the right collection for this. And to put it in a brief way– in the process of deciding what was right for this collection, he became crazy– and so he decided he would call the collection “Sample Schizophrenia.” Samphrenia is an abbreviation of both.

 And how did the film come about?

Well, when he was thinking about how to show the collection, he was watching a movie from the 70’s, called One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, which talks about a mental institution. The founder thought that would be the best way to illustrate his current state of mind. 

In China, he actually made a whole movie set. He directed the movie, and is self-trained in this as well— this was his first time. He made the models fly to China and woke them up at 2 in the morning to make them look tired. Everything is very thought through. All the drawings in the collection, he paints himself. He does the artwork, then takes pictures of it and does prints. Everything he makes, he wants to reflect a real state of artistry from A to Z.

 How has the response been since showing in Paris this fashion week?

We have great feedback from many opinion formers, stores, PR. The brand has an independent spirit. They really know what they’re doing in the long-term. It’s a life project, and they really want to do things right. I think time will tell what will happen, but the brand has time.

What has been the biggest challenge?

They’d been thinking about it for so long, and everything came together very last minute. They were looking for a signal to get it all rolling, and the biggest challenge was to move everything so fast, so we could reach the deadline. 

So, what was that signal?

It was the realization that we had reached the point where we had enough material and enough things to say, the right media to say it and the right structure. 

 

INTERVIEW BY HOLLIS DE LANEY

 

PHOTO/VIDEO CREDIT: SAGITTAIRE A

 

related posts

Christian Siriano FALL/WINTER 2014 editorial lookbook

Seemingly, Fall decided to make an appearance early in New York City this year.  CHRISTIAN SIRIANO has revealed its new designs of luxurious dresses for Fall.

September 18, 2014 8:59 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVALLI FASHION STORY "BREAK ON THROUGH"

Exclusive Fashion Story "BREAK ON THROUGH" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

September 18, 2014 2:26 PM  |  Fashion

CALVIN KLEIN NYFW S/S2015 READY-TO-WEAR

New York Fashion Week S/S 2015 just passed, CALVIN KLEIN amazed our eyes by their new minimalism collection.

September 17, 2014 6:02 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti Opens Its Sixth U.S. Store

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI Design has once again set up shop on American soil.

September 16, 2014 4:35 PM  |  Fashion
Photograph by JOHAN TREVINO

TWELV MAGAZINE NYFW'14 PARTY @GILDED LILY

TWELV MAGAZING FASHION WEEK SS15 PARTY

 

September 15, 2014 8:12 PM  |  Fashion

David Beckham Celebrates The Launch Of “Off Road”

Biking enthusiast DAVID BECKHAM will join the global launch of “OFF ROAD” with the world famous photographer PETER LINDBERGH on Wednesday, September 10th, 2014, which will be held at a British...

September 14, 2014 7:50 PM  |  Fashion

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

The history of VAN CLEEF & ARPELS began with a love story in 1895, ESTELLE ARPELS, the daughter of a precious stone merchant, got married with ALFRED VAN CLEEF, the son of a lapidary...

September 14, 2014 7:30 PM  |  Fashion

PRADA FALL/WINTER 2014 CAMPAIGN

With a selection of bold colors and textiles, the fall/winter 2014 womenswear campaign for Prada tiptoes the line between mystery and immodesty.

September 09, 2014 7:45 PM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON 2014FW CAMPAIGN HOUSE OF ADVENTURE: “SERIES 1”

NICOLAS GHESQUIERE’s first campaign as the creative director for LOUIS VUITTON’s women’s line, “SERIES 1,” has made its debut in many forms.

September 04, 2014 5:40 PM  |  Fashion

RALPH LAUREN MIDNIGHT ROMANCE FRAGRANCE CAMPAIGN

Delicious, elegant, gently sweet, and somehow mysterious; RALPH LAUREN brings to an extraordinary romantic love with a beautiful woman with natural beauty inside.

September 02, 2014 9:08 PM  |  Fashion

TOM FORD BLACK ORCHID

Art is essentially healing our spirit, soul and body; TOM FORD succeeds expressing an art of human body and the right resonance for their new Black Orchis fragrance campaign.  

August 25, 2014 6:02 PM  |  Fashion

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGNS A SNEAKER INSPIRED

Italian designer GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI creates a futuristic sneaker inspired by KID CUDI’s great artistry, energy and vibes for the Spring/Summer 2015 collection.

August 21, 2014 3:21 PM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #3: HOGAN MASK

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

August 21, 2014 11:05 AM  |  Fashion

CHARLES WARREN FASHION STORY "WILD THING CHARLES WARREN"

Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "WILD THING CHARLES WARREN" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 21, 2014 8:12 AM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN NAIL POLISH

ET VOILA! The signature red sole was born.

August 20, 2014 5:59 PM  |  Fashion

DIOR HOMME X TWELV MAGAZINE EDITORIAL VIDEO - NOSTALGIA

Exclusive Dior Homme Editorial Video, "NOSTALGIA" is now avaialble!

Check inside for TWELV's Editorial Video

 

August 18, 2014 9:46 PM  |  Fashion

Dior VIII MONTAIGNE & Dior VIII GRAND BAL WATCH COLLECTIONS

Dior VIII Montaigne and Dior VIII Grand Bal Watch Collections

August 18, 2014 3:26 PM  |  Fashion

JILL STUART FASHION STORY "JESS"

Exclusive Jill Stuart Fashion Story "JESS" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 15, 2014 10:59 AM  |  Fashion
PHOTOGRAPH BY ANI BERBERIAN

DALILA PASOTTI JEWELRY

A silvery metallic piece fills just enough to delegate a simple look; a unique thorny feature is a coniferous neutral that works well regardless of the season.

August 13, 2014 2:16 PM  |  Fashion

MORGAN SAYLOR EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW/FASHION STORY

Exclusive Interview/Fashion Story "MORGAN SAYLOR" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 01, 2014 6:56 PM  |  Fashion

ADOPTED X TWELV PARTY

Last Friday, ADOPTED and TWELV Magazine partnered up to host an exciting party at the ADOPTED headquarters in Soho.

July 30, 2014 3:25 PM  |  Fashion

Fendi Fall/Winter 2014 Campaign backstage shots

For FENDI’s fall/winter 2014 campaign, KARL LAGERFELD stepped behind the cameras to shoot the ad.

July 30, 2014 8:08 AM  |  Fashion

Lanvin 2014 Autumn Winter Campaign

We have never seen a more fashionable family portrait until the LAVIN 2014 Autumn/ Winter campaign. In the ad, TIM WALKER photographs model EDIE CAMPBELL with her entire.

July 28, 2014 3:51 PM  |  Fashion

DIOR HOMME FASHION STORY "DON'T CRY"

Exclusive Fashion Story "DON'T CRY" is now updated!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

July 28, 2014 1:21 PM  |  Fashion

Chanel Fall-Winter 2014/15 pre-collection Film Private View

When it comes to presentation, KARL LAGERFELD is definitely an expert.

July 22, 2014 10:47 AM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti 20th Anniversary in Marina Ibiza Port

There’s no better place to party than Ibiza so it comes as no surprise that GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI celebrated his 20 years of his creative work in the stunning location.

July 21, 2014 3:40 PM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #2: Hello Bruna

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

July 17, 2014 12:10 PM  |  Fashion

Giuseppe Zanotti Design FW14-15 AD CAMPAIGN

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI DESIGN’s FW14-15 campaign is the definition of effortless chic.

July 17, 2014 6:37 AM  |  Fashion

VALENTINO F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

 This Haute Couture season seemed to be the occasion for referencing the past.

July 15, 2014 2:46 PM  |  Fashion

Gisele Bündchen escorted the Louis Vuitton trophy case for the final of the FIFA World Cup

Since 1854, LOUIS VUITTON has been internationally renowned for its unique, innovative styles that are of the highest quality.

July 15, 2014 7:31 AM  |  Fashion

CHANEL F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

On Tuesday July 8th, for the presentation of the CHANEL FALL 2014 Haute Couture collection, KARL LAGERFELD, turned the GRAND PALAIS into a huge terrace evoking the décor of a Parisian apartment....

July 11, 2014 6:00 PM  |  Fashion

JIMMY CHOO AUTUMN WINTER 2014 COLLECTION

The Jimmy Choo Autumn Winter 2014 Collection was recently released, showcased in their most recent advertising campaign. The campaign’s video, starring British model Kit Harington.

July 11, 2014 5:49 PM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN DIOR F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

RAF SIMONS travelled back in time to bring us modern clothes at the CHRISTIAN DIOR 2014 COUTURE show on July 7.

July 10, 2014 4:29 PM  |  Fashion

ROBERTO CAVALLI AUTUMN/WINTER 2014-2015 ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Just Like Marilyn

July 10, 2014 4:03 PM  |  Fashion

ATELIER VERSACE F/W2014 COUTURE COLLECTION

Buckles, chokers, and corsets are a few of the details that amplified the 31 looks shown in the ATELIER VERSACE FALL 2014 COUTURE show on July 6in Paris, France.  This season, DONATELLA VERSACE...

July 09, 2014 6:35 PM  |  Fashion

JAMES MCAVOY FOR PRADA FALL/ WINTER 2014 CAMPAIGN

Inspired by German avant-garde and rigid architectural lines, PRADA’s new fall/winter 2014 campaign staring GOLDEN GLOBE nominated actor, JAMEX MCAVOY, resembles a still out of moody, intense...

July 07, 2014 4:56 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲