Interview: SAGITTAIRE A Debuts in Paris with Fashion Film "Samphrenia"

March 09, 2018 12:00 PM

Sagittaire A is a place deep within the Milky Way that emits radio waves, possibly the location of a black hole, and its perplexing, almost esoteric nature makes it a befitting name for the logo-less brand that debuted Paris Fashion Week this year with a short fashion film– the designers to remain unnamed. The brand’s team is “based in China, rooted in France,” and hail from non-fashion backgrounds, according to Sagittaire A’s Paris spokesperson Rafael Jimenez. The brand’s website is soon to launch, and on Instagram, their logo appears to simply be in Times New Roman all-caps, as if undecided. Instead of the garments bearing any brand emblem, familiar logos like that of Marlboro and Mastercard were adapted for the clothes. These decisions are rooted in the attitude that consumers won’t remember a brand’s logo at such an early stage in its lifecycle. “So why have a logo?” remarked Jimenez. The brand proffers unfamiliar standards such as this after a long-term observance and meditation on the fashion industry from the outside. 

“Samphrenia,” the brand’s fashion short was released in lieu of a traditional fashion show, and was based off of the Oscar-winning Milos Forman film One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, starring Jack Nicholson. The film plays almost like a cinematic recording of a fashion show with the seats placed in the set, a mental institute, left completely vacant. Models were fitted with thick, creased leather boots with exposed zippers climbing the heel. They walked through the film with an unconcerned demeanor, slightly disheveled but at ease, sometimes smoking a cigarette or eating an apple. The collection’s boxy blazers and coats feature contrast stitching, asymmetric and distressed details, and deconstructed elements– vestigial third-sleeves fall down the coat backs of some looks– most reminiscent of Margiela, as are the white-gowned “patients” displayed going about their day in the institute. 

Only second to the product, the artistry behind each step in the design and production process is the essence of Sagittaire A. They hope to establish the brand without allowing marketing efforts or branding to distract from the fashion nor the artistry behind it. TWELV spoke with Jimenez to discuss the mystique; the independent, artisanal nature; and the curious story behind Sagittaire A’s carefully considered inception.

Watch "Samphrenia" and read the excerpts below:

The brand is described as being the result of a “long-term reflection on the fashion industry.” Can you tell me more?

The founders have been observing with a lot of curiosity how the fashion industry works, and how the system works– notions about quality, seasons, distribution, gender, status. They know from an insider, from the fashion circles of production, of high-end luxury labels. The founders are young people between ages 30-33 and self-trained in fashion. One studied business, one studied law, but they had been watching how collections were shown, and discounted immediately, and how the value of the artwork and the intellectual property were thought about.

They are obviously very influenced Margiela and by the Japanese movement, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des Garçons. They are in the school of philosophy of the people who like to put the spotlight on the product, on the creative side, and on the artistic side, as opposed to the more marketing-driven side.

The team seems to have a sense of secrecy.

For the moment, they would like to be considered as a collective that is based in China, rooted in France, who exchange information with different like-minded people in the world. They don’t like to put the focus on who is behind it, just that the artistry that is behind all the processes of creation is real, and is made for the brand, by the brand. 

 Is there a story behind the name?

Some of the members believe in a sort of mysticism and were really attracted by the idea of Sagittaire A, which is a place in the cosmos where certain radio waves are born, and it is believed that there are theories with the origin of the universe. 

 What was the starting point for the first collection?

The team does have a head of design. He’s a self-trained person. He’s a real library rat. He reads all the books. He only works at night. He hardly sees anyone. He has been investigating what would be the right collection for this. And to put it in a brief way– in the process of deciding what was right for this collection, he became crazy– and so he decided he would call the collection “Sample Schizophrenia.” Samphrenia is an abbreviation of both.

 And how did the film come about?

Well, when he was thinking about how to show the collection, he was watching a movie from the 70’s, called One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest, which talks about a mental institution. The founder thought that would be the best way to illustrate his current state of mind. 

In China, he actually made a whole movie set. He directed the movie, and is self-trained in this as well— this was his first time. He made the models fly to China and woke them up at 2 in the morning to make them look tired. Everything is very thought through. All the drawings in the collection, he paints himself. He does the artwork, then takes pictures of it and does prints. Everything he makes, he wants to reflect a real state of artistry from A to Z.

 How has the response been since showing in Paris this fashion week?

We have great feedback from many opinion formers, stores, PR. The brand has an independent spirit. They really know what they’re doing in the long-term. It’s a life project, and they really want to do things right. I think time will tell what will happen, but the brand has time.

What has been the biggest challenge?

They’d been thinking about it for so long, and everything came together very last minute. They were looking for a signal to get it all rolling, and the biggest challenge was to move everything so fast, so we could reach the deadline. 

So, what was that signal?

It was the realization that we had reached the point where we had enough material and enough things to say, the right media to say it and the right structure. 

 

INTERVIEW BY HOLLIS DE LANEY

 

PHOTO/VIDEO CREDIT: SAGITTAIRE A

 

related posts

BERENIK FASHION STORY "FALLING UP"

BERENIK Fashion Story "FALLING UP" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

December 05, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Back Stage #8: Top Gun

"Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine's inspired creations"

November 23, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE PARTY @ TIKI TABU / SIXTY LES

Right in the middle of the an indecisive November, TWELV Magazine invited the beautiful folks of New York City to celebrate Fall in its latest party at TIKI TABU...

November 22, 2015 7:00 PM  |  Fashion

KAT GRAHAM EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW / FASHION STORY "KAT GRAHAM 1991"

Kat Graham Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "KAT GRAHAM 1991" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

October 16, 2015 2:00 PM  |  Fashion

Gian Kamal Fashion Story "In The Woods"

Exclusive Gian Kamal Fashion Story "In The Woods" is now available! 

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

October 10, 2015 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV NYFW S/S 2016 Party @ TIKI TABU / SIXTY LES

Nothing better than a fashion party that has an amazing music and rooftop drinks to relive the hassle of fashion week.

October 01, 2015 6:00 PM  |  Fashion

Jill Stuart NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear

The 70’s are back with Jill Stuart Spring/Summer 2016 collection with high-waists and bell-bottoms that are to die for. The designer has traveled back in time with a range of simple suits and...

October 01, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Marc Jacobs NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear

“I have always found comfort in the familiar and the frequent return to the things that move me visually, emotionally and intellectually.”

 

October 01, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

TWELV / ARC TOKYO EXCLUSIVE PARTIES IN JAPAN

ARC is a social hub of entertainment, a club, and a bar in the heart of Tokyo's fashion district Omotesando.

September 16, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

Yigal Azrouël NYFW S/S2016 Ready-To-Wear

 “It’s about going from step to step and showing that progression.”

 

September 15, 2015 6:00 PM  |  Fashion

MARC JACOBS HOSTS "GLOSS" BOOK EVENT BY Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha

Amongst the fun and chaos that comes with fashion week, Marc Jacobs did a fantastic job in adding to the excitement during his party last night celebrating ...
September 11, 2015 4:51 PM  |  Fashion

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI F/W2015 AD CAMPAIGN

When it comes to designing shoes, few designers are as artistic as Giuseppe Zanotti.

September 11, 2015 12:50 PM  |  Fashion

Bubblegum Pinky Rings by David Yurman

The Bubblegum Pinky Rings by David Yurman is a unique fine jewelry ring that has been designed by an elite crowd. A king wears his family signet ring on his pinky.

September 08, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Fashion Story "NEVER TALK WITH STRANGERS"

Exclusive CHRISTIAN SIRIANO Fashion Story "NEVER TALK WITH STRANGERS" is now available.

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

September 06, 2015 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Sophie Auster Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "The Beautiful Sounds of Sophie Auster"

Sophoe Auster Exclusive Interview / Fashion Story "THE BEAUTIFUL SOUNDS OF SOPHIE AUSTER" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 27, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

KTZ Fashion Story "NEW MODERN"

Exclusive KTZ Fashion Story "NEW MODERN" is now available.

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 22, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

GUESS Fashion Story "GUESS WHO I AM?"

Exclusive GUESS Fashion Story "GUESS WHO I AM?" is now available.

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

August 20, 2015 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

SCHIELD Fall/Winter 2015-16

SCHIELD, an avant-garde jewelry line, holds a new concept of an art, fashion, and photography project...

August 17, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

LOUIS VUITTON "Series 3"

Nicolas Ghesquière has continued Louis Vuitton’s ongoing advertising campaign with "Series 3," featuring the LV Fall/Winter 2015-2016 collection...

August 08, 2015 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

Glamour Games: Gigi Hadid vs. Michael Kors

Rare are the moments when our favorite fashion icons step down from their sacred fame pedestals to act like normal human beings - just like us!

July 27, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

"Prada Raw" Eyewear Collection Spring /Summer 2015

“Prada Raw” is a new eyewear collection that was released this summer.

July 23, 2015 10:00 AM  |  Fashion

"KENZO FW15 Campaign Short Film By Gregg Araki” Progeny of Mastermind

KENZO’s designer duo Carol Lim and Humberto Leon have never failed to impress.

July 21, 2015 9:00 AM  |  Fashion

3.1 Phillip Lim Fashion Story "BLONDE ON BLONDE"

Exclusive 3.1 Phillip Lim Fashion Story "BLONDE ON BLONDE" is now available.

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

July 15, 2015 3:00 PM  |  Fashion

TWELV MAGAZINE TANABATA PARTY

Every year, on the seventh of July, two lovers - stars Vega and Altair, who are separated by the Milky Way, have the chance to meet for a single day.

July 14, 2015 12:00 PM  |  Fashion

Jason Wu Fashion Story "NEW DAWN FADES"

Exclusive Jason Wu Fashion Story "NEW DAWN FADES" is now available.

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

July 11, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

PARLEY FOR THE OCEANS

Last night, the TWELV team had the distinct pleasure of attending the United Nations x Parley Launch event.
June 30, 2015 5:00 PM  |  Fashion

Miu Miu Releases Fall/Winter 2015 Campaign “Subjective Relativity”

There is something fantastic about the moments when a fashion brand steps back from the world of campaigns with perfectly shot studio pictures.

June 28, 2015 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Jill Stuart Fashion Story "EXIT DOOR"

Exclusive Jill Stuart Fashion Story "EXIT DOOR"  is now available.

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

June 25, 2015 1:00 PM  |  Fashion

COOL CAT in collaboration with LOST ART

Cool Cat launched its new summer campaign in collaboration with Lost Art. Stylist Hissa Igarashi and photographer Chama brought this collaboration to life and created a compelling campaign.

June 23, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

NARS x Steven Klein

In celebration of an upcoming cosmetic collaboration, Steven Klein, Francois Nars, Etienne Russo, and Susanne Bartsch took over the historical Alder Manor in Yonkers, New York for a night of...

June 18, 2015 1:01 PM  |  Fashion

BACKSTAGE #7: A Woman

Behind the scenes of TWELV Magazine’s inspired creations” 

June 15, 2015 3:55 PM  |  Fashion

Balmain x H&M – Get Ready for the Balmainnation

It all started about a month ago at the Billboard Music Awards...

June 09, 2015 4:46 PM  |  Fashion

STACY MARTIN BECOMES MIU MIU’S FRAGRANCE MUSE

Miuccia Prada has finally deemed it appropriate for her highly regarded Miu Miu brand to produce a fragrance.

June 07, 2015 4:27 PM  |  Fashion

Y3 Fashion Story "Paint it Black"

Y3 One Brand Story "Paint It Black" is now available!

Check inside for the Full Page Editorial

May 29, 2015 11:00 AM  |  Fashion

Lykke Li For GUCCI '15 Campaign Film

Lykke Li stars in a new commercial/ short film for Gucci’s 2015 Spring/Summer collection.

May 28, 2015 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

TOUS Celebrates Their S/S2015 Miami Collection

TWELV was invited to attend a party by TOUS celebrating their Spring Summer 2015 Miami collection and Gala for TOUS, a capsule collaboration with Spanish blogger, Gala González.

May 21, 2015 4:00 PM  |  Fashion

Pages

SITE BY: monocomplex©Marbles & Marbles International Inc. Drupal Development by: DivDiv, NYC
▲ back to top ▲