ANTHONY VACCARELLO INTERVIEW

July 24, 2019 12:03 AM

Anthony Vaccarello was considered as one of the brightest new talent in fashion: he was part of this new generation of talents the whole industry has kept an eye on to see them grow, to see them start from assistants until they finally establish themselves as their own entities. During the Paris Fashion Week for the Fall/Winter 2012 ready-to-wear collections, the Belgian-born and Italian-descended fashion designer was catapulted to fame, a fashion show who saw the return of Karlie Kloss – who opened the show – on the catwalk after being away of the fwwashionsphere a few months. To much the audience’s surprise, the collection included more than just his signature black creations: it presented a subdued color palette of black, navy (or bleu marine, should I say), gold, and forest green. This highly acclaimed collection proves that we’ll have to count on him in the years to come yet in fashion to surprise us. A few days before the show, I interviewed him, where he unveiled a little behind his charming shyness.

What was your relationship with fashion when we were growing up?

Always been interested in fashion without know- ing it will be a real work.

Can you tell us a bit about your background?

I studied 5 years at La Cambre in Brussels then I won the Festival of Hyères with my graduating collection which gave me the opportunity to work for Fendi for 2 years. Then I came back in Paris in 2009 to launch a capsule collection. Step by step and having support from the major stockists of the industry I started with a proper show in 2011.

I’ve heard you began to study law rst, before get- ting into fashion. Why law?

I don’t know. I think it was very interesting to study law, I like and I’m interested in more things than just fashion, music and art.

What made you decide to drop your studies in law for fashion?

I was bored, I couldn’t imagine myself doing that all my life. La Cambre was just in front of the Law university... so I just crossed the street and took information on how to apply at La Cambre.

What inspire you to design your collections?

Everything but mostly girls that I know and who surround me. I have to know these women before creating.

In 2006, you won Le Grand Prix du Festival de Hyères, which must have been an incredible experi- ence for you. How did you live it? How did you get prepare for it?

Actually I wasn’t prepared at all. I showed my last year collection from La Cambre. So after 5 years at La Cambre I was ready to apply for the festival.

Then, Fendi. How was it working with Karl La- gerfeld?

It was cool. Karl is the Grand Pope of fashion. Starting working with him when you’ve just fin - ished school is just unreal.

Did you have a great contact with him? What was the best fashion advice he gave you?

I was young and very shy (maybe more than now). We weren’t friends, I was very impressed by the character.

What have you learned from your experience at Fendi? The most suprising thing you learned for your designing skills?

I learned to keep in mind the commercial aspect of the business, after school, to be in such a great fashion house it’s a very good experience, you learn a lot. You learn that you are not the only one but that you work with a team. It’s a team that build a brand. I applicate that to my own business.

What made you move away from Fendi and launch your own brand?

I moved for love. My boyfriend lived in Paris. I was tired of fly ing from Rome to Paris every week- end. I also wanted to do something else...

How have you responded to the positive reviews of your rst real collection?

I don’t know. I was working on the next one straight away. Of course it’s very encouraging ...Black is certainly the most recurrent “color” of your collections.

How can you explain that?

It’s not actually. It’s an idea people remind of my collection. If you look closer to the clothes you will notice that’s it’s not only black.It’s more about line and construction and dark colors are the best for that but I don’t want to be catalogued as the black dress designer.

You’re getting more and more popular in fashion. How do you manage it? Does it change you?

I don’t realise this because my life hasn’t change. I always work a lot and don’t go to party so...To me all I can say is that it sells more and more my collections.

If you had the chance to go back in the past, what would you change in yours?

Nothing.

What would be the best advice you can give to a young student in a fashion school to succeed as you did?

I never listen to advice so I won’t give any. Every- one has to know what to do. I think there is a time and place for everyone. You just have to work as hard as you can and be aware of everything around you (it’s an advice isn’t it ?)

A last word?

Ciao.

 

WRITTEN BY ERIC WAROLL

PHOTOGRAPHY TAKA MAYUMI

STYLING SOHEI YOSHIDA

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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